Transfusion For Auto Tranny
#1
Posted 28 August 2007 - 07:45 AM
you need two people
you will need 24 quarts of recommended fluid for you vehicle
transmission kit (filter and gasket)
basic wrenches and tools
screw drivers
sockets
torx bits
you must remove the transmission return cooler line from the transmission, install a 3 foot rubber hose on the line and run it into a five gallon bucket.
on a 999 transmission it is the rear line if you pull off the wrong line you will make a big mess
have 15 to 20 quarts of fluid ready. put your transfer Case in neutral and start your engine shift your transmission to neutral and you will see fluid coming out of the installed hose into the bucket (if it comes out the other end you have the wrong line and a big mess)
you will notice the fluid coming out of the installed hose filling the bucket will start to bubble. immediately add 2 quarts of fluid into the filler tube and stop adding until it starts to bubble again
listen do not allow the flow of fluid from the installed hose to stop. if you do, your pump will be running dry and damage will accrue to your transmission.
add two quarts and again let the hose flow until it starts to bubble continue in this manner
you will notice the fluid color change after your 10 to 12 quart.
shift your transmission into reverse and wait 30 seconds.
let idle and shift your transmission into drive and raise engine rpm to 2000 wait 10 sec and lower to idle raise and lower your engine rpm three more times then shift into neutral
stop adding fluid and run the engine until the fluid coming out of the hose bubbles and shut the engine off. remove the installed hose and reattach cooler line.
raise vehicle and remove transmission pan change filter clean pan and reinstall with new gasket.
lower vehicle and add 3 quart of thE recommended fluid. start engine in neutral and add fluid until full.
road test and again check fluid level
any questions pm
tranydoctor
#2
Posted 28 August 2007 - 08:38 AM
Now I have a question... why do they call it Transfusion rather than Automatic Transmission Flush or the like
I know the meaning of transfusion but I was just wondering if a word difference was needed to differentiate from any other procedure on a vehicle.
El Niño
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#3
Posted 28 August 2007 - 10:45 AM
Jim B, on Aug 28 2007, 09:38 AM, said:
Now I have a question... why do they call it Transfusion rather than Automatic Transmission Flush or the like
I know the meaning of transfusin but I was just wondering if a word difference was needed to differentiate from any other procedure on a vehicle.
transfusion
One entry found for transfusion.
Main Entry: trans·fu·sion
Pronunciation: tran(t)s-'fyü-zh&n
Function: noun
1 : an act, process, or instance of transfusing; especially : the process of transfusing fluid (as blood) into a vein or artery
2 : something transfused
- trans·fu·sion·al /-'fyüzh-n&l, -'fyü-zh&-n&l/ adjective
next we will talk about operations
that is why i am a trany doctor
#4
Posted 28 August 2007 - 10:59 AM
tranydoctor, on Aug 28 2007, 11:45 AM, said:
that is why i am a trany doctor
I like it!
El Niño
Experience is defined as something you get, after you need it.
Give the world the best you have. The best will come back to you...
There are no rules for good photographs, there are only good photographs.
"Thou shalt not bear false witness against thy neighbour." 9th Commandment.
"Speak not Evil of the absent for it is unjust." George Washington, Rule 89 of Civility and Decent Behavior.
Wheeling Gallery ----- E-Mail
Life Member: South Florida Jeep Club
#5
Posted 28 August 2007 - 11:27 AM
Also a very odd but important tip is that any contamination of the fluid is bad, so use a new/clean funnel for the replacement of the fluid, and NEVER use a funnel that was used for GLYCOL, coolant.. I will post info as to why if anyone needs to know but Glycol contamination for a tranny or engine oil is deadly..
#6
Posted 28 August 2007 - 12:17 PM
NonstopWJ, on Aug 28 2007, 12:27 PM, said:
Yeah, it kinda does a number on bearings!
If you don't fight for the trails, there won't be any trails to fight for.
What you get by achieving your goals is not as important as what you become by achieving your goals.
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"War is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest of things. The decayed and degraded state of moral and patriotic feeling that thinks that nothing is worth war is much worse. The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight, nothing which is more important than his own personal safety, is a miserable creature and has no chance of being free unless made and kept so by the exertions of better men than himself." ....
John Stuart Mill
#7
Posted 28 August 2007 - 12:26 PM
NonstopWJ, on Aug 28 2007, 12:27 PM, said:
Also a very odd but important tip is that any contamination of the fluid is bad, so use a new/clean funnel for the replacement of the fluid, and NEVER use a funnel that was used for GLYCOL, coolant.. I will post info as to why if anyone needs to know but Glycol contamination for a tranny or engine oil is deadly..
nonstop once again you add a lot of knowledge
#8
Posted 29 August 2007 - 08:10 AM
tranydoctor, on Aug 28 2007, 08:45 AM, said:
shift your transmission into reverse and wait 30 seconds.
let idle and shift your transmission into drive and raise engine rpm to 2000 wait 10 sec and lower to idle raise and lower your engine rpm three more times then shift into neutral
stop adding fluid and run the engine until the fluid coming out of the hose bubbles and shut the engine off. remove the installed hose and reattach cooler line.
I've been planning on this type of flush myself, nice to see someone else list out the steps. I'm confused though about the process during the first two lines I quoted from you. If the Jeep is running and pushing fluid into the 5 gal bucket while I shift the tranny into R and wait 30 seconds, will I risk running the pump dry? Again, when I put the tranny into D and raise/lower the RPMs, will I risk running the pump dry? I guess I don't see how I can do all those things and keep filling 2 Qts of fluid when needed. Obviously I've never done this method so I don't know how long adding 2 Qts of fluid will last before I need to add 2 more.
My thought was to use two 5 gal buckets, one for the old fluid coming out (line to the cooler) and one full of new tranny fluid to be sucked in (from the cooler return line) so I wouldn't have to worry about filling through the filler tube. Will there be enough suction in the return line to pull fluid from the bucket? Lastly, would it make sense to do a quick drain of the fluid in the pan and replace with new fluid before starting the flush? I do this when I bleed the brakes (siphon out all the old brake fluid in the reservoir and fill with new fluid). My limited understanding of transmissions was that the fluid in the pan was the cooled, returned fluid getting ready to be sucked up through the filter and into the passage ways. If this is correct, it seems to make sense to me to drain out the fluid in the pan before starting. TIA
2003 Sport
#9
Posted 29 August 2007 - 11:37 AM
YJWhenUCanTJ, on Aug 29 2007, 09:10 AM, said:
My thought was to use two 5 gal buckets, one for the old fluid coming out (line to the cooler) and one full of new tranny fluid to be sucked in (from the cooler return line) so I wouldn't have to worry about filling through the filler tube. Will there be enough suction in the return line to pull fluid from the bucket? Lastly, would it make sense to do a quick drain of the fluid in the pan and replace with new fluid before starting the flush? I do this when I bleed the brakes (siphon out all the old brake fluid in the reservoir and fill with new fluid). My limited understanding of transmissions was that the fluid in the pan was the
cooled, returned fluid getting ready to be sucked up through the filter and into the passage ways. If this is correct, it seems to make sense to me to drain out the fluid in the pan before starting. TIA
as i stated you need 2 people, one to drive, one to watch bucket and add fluid.
if you have fluid coming out of the cooler line into the bucket then you have pump pressure, when it starts to bubble it is getting low immediately add fluid through filler tube
the return line lubes the gears and bushings then then the fluid fills pan
there is no suction on the cooler return line transmission side, so trans will not fill that way
also i service the transmission last as stated i prefer changing the filter after the flush
#10
Posted 09 September 2007 - 03:14 PM
CJ7 Swamp Buggy
#11
Posted 09 September 2007 - 03:29 PM
'48 Willys; '74CJ5; '80CJ7; '84 CJ8; '86 CJ7
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#12
Posted 09 September 2007 - 03:39 PM
CJ7 Swamp Buggy
#13
Posted 09 September 2007 - 03:47 PM
http://jeeptalk.net/index...?showtopic=8648
'48 Willys; '74CJ5; '80CJ7; '84 CJ8; '86 CJ7
*Who Needs A Stinking Manual When You Have A Fat Wallet For Tech Support!*
*What man is a man who does not make the world better*
Support the Central Florida Bible Camp for kids
#14
Posted 10 September 2007 - 05:27 AM
i would set it up different just in case you ever need to remove the pump
#15
Posted 10 September 2007 - 08:03 AM
TranyDoctor, on Sep 10 2007, 06:27 AM, said:
I what way?
'48 Willys; '74CJ5; '80CJ7; '84 CJ8; '86 CJ7
*Who Needs A Stinking Manual When You Have A Fat Wallet For Tech Support!*
*What man is a man who does not make the world better*
Support the Central Florida Bible Camp for kids
#16
Posted 10 September 2007 - 12:11 PM
#17
Posted 10 September 2007 - 01:50 PM
I do like the idea but wouldn't know where to drill. U would have to do an explicit write up on a TF-999.
'48 Willys; '74CJ5; '80CJ7; '84 CJ8; '86 CJ7
*Who Needs A Stinking Manual When You Have A Fat Wallet For Tech Support!*
*What man is a man who does not make the world better*
Support the Central Florida Bible Camp for kids
#18
Posted 10 September 2007 - 08:42 PM
Rollbar, on Sep 10 2007, 02:50 PM, said:
so i can remove the pump! why jb weld the vent to the case? and how would you remove it on disassembly without a hammer and chisel!
i think of tomorrow nothing is permanent and nothing lasts forever. (ask your wife)
#19
Posted 11 September 2007 - 03:26 PM
CJ7 Swamp Buggy
#20
Posted 12 September 2007 - 12:30 AM
Any info would be much appreciated!
That was great info on the 3-speed auto. trans. - Does anybody have any info on venting the 4-speed auto. trans.? Maybe the vent's in the same place on both trans.?
Thanks in advance!
#21
Posted 12 September 2007 - 04:13 AM
southernstylev8, on Sep 11 2007, 04:26 PM, said:
So I guess your moving to Arizona? They say we have a water shortage in Florida.. Ha ha
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#22
Posted 16 September 2007 - 06:52 AM
tranydoctor, on Aug 28 2007, 08:45 AM, said:
you need two people
you will need 24 quarts of recommended fluid for you vehicle
transmission kit (filter and gasket)
basic wrenches and tools
screw drivers
sockets
torx bits
wrenches
you must remove the transmission return cooler line from the transmission, install a 3 foot rubber hose on the line and run it into a five gallon bucket.
on a 999 transmission it is the rear line if you pull off the wrong line you will make a big mess
have 15 to 20 quarts of fluid ready. put your transfer Case in neutral and start your engine shift your transmission to neutral and you will see fluid coming out of the installed hose into the bucket (if it comes out the other end you have the wrong line and a big mess)
you will notice the fluid coming out of the installed hose filling the bucket will start to bubble. immediately add 2 quarts of fluid into the filler tube and stop adding until it starts to bubble again
listen do not allow the flow of fluid from the installed hose to stop. if you do, your pump will be running dry and damage will accrue to your transmission.
add two quarts and again let the hose flow until it starts to bubble continue in this manner
you will notice the fluid color change after your 10 to 12 quart.
shift your transmission into reverse and wait 30 seconds.
let idle and shift your transmission into drive and raise engine rpm to 2000 wait 10 sec and lower to idle raise and lower your engine rpm three more times then shift into neutral
stop adding fluid and run the engine until the fluid coming out of the hose bubbles and shut the engine off. remove the installed hose and reattach cooler line.
raise vehicle and remove transmission pan change filter clean pan and reinstall with new gasket.
lower vehicle and add 3 quart of th recommended fluid. start engine in neutral and add fluid utile full.
road test and again check fluid level
any questions pm
tranydoctor
The method you use is very similar to the one an Amsoil dealer gave me. He had me change the filter and put new fluid in the pan and than pump the old fluid out like you do. Do you know which is better or if it makes any difference?
#23
Posted 16 September 2007 - 07:05 AM
georged, on Sep 16 2007, 07:52 AM, said:
i prefer changing the pan gasket and filter 2nd i like to pump new fluid in first especially if is contaminated with water otherwise you will contaminate the new filter with water.
#24
Posted 02 October 2007 - 10:06 AM
CJ7 Swamp Buggy