After doing virtually no maintenance for the first 131,000 miles, I got to wondering.
How tough is it to replace my u-joints in the D30 & driveshafts?
I'm thinking with the right tools, I may be able to tackle it...any ideas?
Which u-joints are the best to go with- spicers or something in that price range that are greasable?
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U-joint replcement
#1
Posted 13 July 2006 - 10:27 PM
#2
Posted 13 July 2006 - 10:43 PM
Replacing the u-joints is pretty simple. The axle joints will require pulling the hubs to get the axle out but that's easy too. Among other tools, a vice and large c-clamp will make the job easier but if they've been in there for 131000 miles, it may take some beating with a hammer to get the old ones out.
Upgrading to Spicer 297's is popular as they're much stronger than stock, but keep in mind making your u-joints tougher moves the weak link to either your hubs or your ring & pinon, both of which are more expensive to replace than u-joints.
Here's a nice writeup on the process...
http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/techn...297andSeals.htm
Whether you go with beefy u-joints or stock, stick with genuine Spicer parts.
Upgrading to Spicer 297's is popular as they're much stronger than stock, but keep in mind making your u-joints tougher moves the weak link to either your hubs or your ring & pinon, both of which are more expensive to replace than u-joints.
Here's a nice writeup on the process...
http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/techn...297andSeals.htm
Whether you go with beefy u-joints or stock, stick with genuine Spicer parts.
Matt
K7MTO
79 CJ-5
K7MTO
79 CJ-5
#3
Posted 23 July 2006 - 09:26 PM
nongreasable. they seem to last longer and keep the grease in much better.
-94 1 ton YJ - lifted/welded/300 ponies 4.7 Stroker/snorkel/winch/37 boggers 4sale
-04 superduty 6.0 diesel, hemlock performance transmission, ARP headstuds,EGR delete, SCT Livewire, 6" Procomp, exhaust,
-06 cummins 3500
www.southeasthay.com
-04 superduty 6.0 diesel, hemlock performance transmission, ARP headstuds,EGR delete, SCT Livewire, 6" Procomp, exhaust,
-06 cummins 3500
www.southeasthay.com
#4
Posted 24 July 2006 - 07:13 AM
Archi-jp, on Jul 13 2006, 10:27 PM, said:
After doing virtually no maintenance for the first 131,000 miles, I got to wondering.
How tough is it to replace my u-joints in the D30 & driveshafts?
I'm thinking with the right tools, I may be able to tackle it...any ideas?
Which u-joints are the best to go with- spicers or something in that price range that are greasable?
How tough is it to replace my u-joints in the D30 & driveshafts?
I'm thinking with the right tools, I may be able to tackle it...any ideas?
Which u-joints are the best to go with- spicers or something in that price range that are greasable?
If it ain't broke, don't fix it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
1978 Jeep CJ7 4.0HO w/ Headmann Headers, MSD ignition, front dana 30 with Warn axle shafts, Warn premium locking hubs, custom drive shafts front and rear, NP 435 Transmission (6.69 to 1 first), dana 300 transfercase, model 20 rear differential with superior axles, Ox lockers front and rear, 4.10 gears, Currie twin stick, Warn premium front locking hubs, BDS 4" spring under suspension, Rancho RS 5000 shocks, revolver front shackles, warn XD9000I winch, 35" General Grabber M/T, Rubicon Express hand throttle and sway bar disconnects, dual optima batteries(red and yellow top) w/incab switch, and a on board hot water shower.
#5
Posted 02 August 2006 - 06:06 PM
jeepincj78, on Jul 24 2006, 07:13 AM, said:
Archi-jp, on Jul 13 2006, 10:27 PM, said:
After doing virtually no maintenance for the first 131,000 miles, I got to wondering.
How tough is it to replace my u-joints in the D30 & driveshafts?
I'm thinking with the right tools, I may be able to tackle it...any ideas?
Which u-joints are the best to go with- spicers or something in that price range that are greasable?
How tough is it to replace my u-joints in the D30 & driveshafts?
I'm thinking with the right tools, I may be able to tackle it...any ideas?
Which u-joints are the best to go with- spicers or something in that price range that are greasable?
If it ain't broke, don't fix it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I agree with jeepinc78. I have 250k on my jeep GC and haven't had to replace any u-joints. Not even the VC in my np249
#6
Posted 02 August 2006 - 11:29 PM
250k without replacing the VC in a ZJ has to be a record, I have rarely seen them go past 110k with good driving and no froading, but with nominal beatings they last typically between 70-90k miles... Awesome...!!! My 95 got 5 oil changes before the first 249 went warranty, then 60k for round 2.. then at 90k or so a 231 stopped the need
I just did a check today on my Dubs underside and found that the Ujoints I replaced at 22k miles are rock solid, not touchin em... Buit if yer there for another reason, the $$ are well worth it, I keep the old parts as spares...
Does this Jeep see any wheeling, if not, leave em be is my take...
I just did a check today on my Dubs underside and found that the Ujoints I replaced at 22k miles are rock solid, not touchin em... Buit if yer there for another reason, the $$ are well worth it, I keep the old parts as spares...
Does this Jeep see any wheeling, if not, leave em be is my take...
2000 5.2 WJ
#7
Posted 03 August 2006 - 12:42 AM
Sure it sees the off road- just not as much as it wants to see...
I'm looking at doing them because they're surrounded by rusty dust & want to take a preventative approach to keeping her on the road...
NONSTOP- when are we going to wheel around Boca sometime soon? We talked about it when we were at Corbett...
I'm looking at doing them because they're surrounded by rusty dust & want to take a preventative approach to keeping her on the road...
NONSTOP- when are we going to wheel around Boca sometime soon? We talked about it when we were at Corbett...
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