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4.7 Stroker

#1 User is offline   Alex 

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Posted 28 March 2006 - 08:50 AM

Well i finished with the stroker last night and finally got it in...Unfortunately, photobucket is having some "site maintenance" done so i cant link my images.

The new swap consists of:

4.0L block which is now 4.7L from Titan Engines
MORE 1 inch lift motor mounts
Flowkooler water pump
performance distributors firepower ignition system
borla header **There's a reason why they dont come for automatics...i'll show you how to make it work
borla cat back
bored out throttle body
ported intake manifold
FIVEO ford racing injectors
Hesco Fuel pressure regulator
Optima Yellow top
Rubberized coat to firewall (cut down on sound)



I just have to set the timing and it'll be moving. Last engine we did, Frank_YJ and rob set the timing for me...Damnit, i shouldve payed more attention. Anyone know how to do it without the gun. Cylinder 1 to TDC, but whats next?

-Alex
-94 1 ton YJ - lifted/welded/300 ponies 4.7 Stroker/snorkel/winch/37 boggers 4sale
-04 superduty 6.0 diesel, hemlock performance transmission, ARP headstuds,EGR delete, SCT Livewire, 6" Procomp, exhaust,
-06 cummins 3500

www.southeasthay.com

#2 User is offline   david97jeep 

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Posted 30 March 2006 - 04:51 PM

Sounds great any pic to show it off?

:gun: :gun:
1997 TJ Wrangler 2.5 Lt. five speed
American racing wheels and KNL air filter redid everything under the hood, so it will run for ever!!
Front push bar and dayrunner KC lights.
Just added new seats, tow hitch, and center console and soon add a 3 or 4 in lift and 31x10.50R15

#3 User is offline   jeepincj78 

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Posted 31 March 2006 - 08:35 AM

Alex, what made you go with the flowkooler water pump over the Hesco unit?? Oh, and one more thing, did Titan engines build your ening or did you do it? Titan engines is where I bought all of my internal parts. Chuck was excellent to deal with over there.

Frank

Ps. Did you find anyone to help you with the timing??/
1978 Jeep CJ7 4.0HO w/ Headmann Headers, MSD ignition, front dana 30 with Warn axle shafts, Warn premium locking hubs, custom drive shafts front and rear, NP 435 Transmission (6.69 to 1 first), dana 300 transfercase, model 20 rear differential with superior axles, Ox lockers front and rear, 4.10 gears, Currie twin stick, Warn premium front locking hubs, BDS 4" spring under suspension, Rancho RS 5000 shocks, revolver front shackles, warn XD9000I winch, 35" General Grabber M/T, Rubicon Express hand throttle and sway bar disconnects, dual optima batteries(red and yellow top) w/incab switch, and a on board hot water shower.

#4 User is offline   Jim B 

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  Posted 31 March 2006 - 08:55 AM

Alex, on Mar 28 2006, 08:50 AM, said:

i shouldve payed more attention. Anyone know how to do it without the gun.

Go by sound, steady and smooth, then check the pedal rev. I'm sure you'll hear from others.

You still using Photocrapbucket. :gun: :gun:
Posted Image Posted Image
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Experience is defined as something you get, after you need it.
Give the world the best you have. The best will come back to you...

There are no rules for good photographs, there are only good photographs.
"Thou shalt not bear false witness against thy neighbour." 9th Commandment.
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#5 User is offline   Alex 

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Posted 31 March 2006 - 03:29 PM

got it done. Been runnin the thing for the past few days. I'll tell you this. For being undergeared on these tires, this motor really puts you in the seat!

I got the timing figured out. Just a few times pullin out the distributor and lining the cap up, and it was good. Chuck did the work. It runs great and i would recommend titan engines to anyone.

As for the flowkooler vs the hesco, i really had no preferance...I bought flowkooler because i saw it advertised more i guess. I dont have a fan shroud on it yet and still have the stock fan and clutch. I still have yet to see it bubble over 200 degrees. If there was 1 upgrade that i wish i had done before, it wouldve been the high flow water pump. It was worth every penny! I have a strong feeling overheating will never be an issue.

As of right now, the jeep is gonna be trailered to the transmission shop to have jasper replace the torque converter. The lock up is not working properly and im losing A TON of power through it. I could not have made a better choice on an engine. Every hard earned dollar was worth it. Now to get some of these here pictures up....Will do it today.

-alex

Photocrapit sucks
-94 1 ton YJ - lifted/welded/300 ponies 4.7 Stroker/snorkel/winch/37 boggers 4sale
-04 superduty 6.0 diesel, hemlock performance transmission, ARP headstuds,EGR delete, SCT Livewire, 6" Procomp, exhaust,
-06 cummins 3500

www.southeasthay.com

#6 User is offline   Alex 

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Posted 01 April 2006 - 01:53 PM

So...Finally!

We started out with a 4.0 block that i bought down at 4x4 Mania. I bought it last year after a Miami ride that was right before halloween. On the way back up from the ride as some of you may or may not know, i threw a rod. So i dropped the block in from 4x4 mania and it lasted until i cracked the cast iron that the motor mount block plate connected to. As a result, there was no chance of using this motor again. So, instead of dropping in a 4th regular 4L motor, i decided it was time to get some more power.

After checking on Ebay for strokers and prices, i ran across Titan Engines which had the most reasonable deal. I then looked at location. OCALA! Woo hoo! Next day at work, i called chuck and we talked about the motors they make, the process, materials used, and who does the work on them. I guess i was talking to the right guy because he does ALL the work on the strokers. If you want to talk about an encyclopedia of knowledge, this is the guy.


A few weeks later when i got $2,380.00 together($350.00 on core charge until your old block is returned), i ordered the stroker and it came in 2 days.
With the stroker came:
  • New oil pump
  • More gaskets than you could even use
  • the engine
  • and a free pallet!
Off your old engine, you will still need:
  • Timing chain cover
  • crank pulley
  • upper and lower idler pulley
  • AC Compressor (if you have AC)
  • Power Steering Pump
  • Alternator
  • Water Pump
  • Thermostat and Housing
  • Valve Cover
  • Flywheel
  • Intake Manifold
  • Distributor
  • Oil Dipstick thing
  • And all brackets
  • Motor Mount Block Plates
  • Motor Mounts
  • Exhaust Manifold
The list of stuff you'll need to order are:
  • 24, 26, or 30 LB injectors, depending on what motor you end up with
  • 62mm throttle body (or bigger)
All the parts that i went ahead and bolted on:
  • MORE 1 inch lift motor mounts
  • Flowkooler water pump
  • performance distributors firepower ignition system(Cap, rotor, BIG Pre sized WIRES, Screamin' Demon Ignition coil)
  • borla header
  • Borla Cat Back
  • bored out throttle body
  • ported intake manifold
  • FIVEO ford racing injectors
  • Hesco Fuel pressure regulator(now a return item, no use for it)
Other things i did while the motor was out was:
  • Sand down the frame from the cab up
  • undercoat the firewall and frame
  • clean up all wiring and replace old cracked wire casing
  • make sure there were no open holes between cab and firewall
Now for the pictures:

This is the old motor and i havent pulled most parts yet. Take a look at the firewall...Filthy

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Step 1:

Start by draining all fluids. In this picture i was draining the radiator. Next would be to pull the hose off the water pump and drain as much out the block as possible. You dont want radiator fluid pouring all over when your working on pulling parts. Next would be to drain the old oil out of the oil pan.

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Step 2:

Before you start pulling parts, label EVERYTHING that is going to stay in the engine compartment that is going to bolt up to your new motor. In this picture i began by labeling all the wires going to the intake manifold.

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Step 3:

After you have pulled all the wires off the intake manifold, remove the fuel line, from the side of the intake manifold, and disconnect it from your fuel rail. When your done pulling hoses, its a good idea to zip tie them to the frame rails or whatever is not too out of the way of its normal path to the motor

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Step 4:

Remove Your intake manifold, and valve cover, AC compressor, AC and alternator brackets, power steering pump(this bolts to the block and intake manifold, make sure you remove the bolts off the intake manifold before trying to pull it), water pump, and thermostat housing. You'll be left with, for the most part, a bare block.

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When you unbolt your AC compressor, you can easily just fold it over to the passenger side fenderwell where it will rest by itself, if you want to secure it, ziptie it to the grill support.

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Step 5:

Next, pull out your radiator, this will give you the clearance when you are ready to pull the motor out.

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Step 6:

If you have an automatic, you will absolutely need to remove the bolts from the flywheel to the torque converter. Remove the inspection plate with a 9/16ths wrench, and you will see the torque back of the flywheel. There are 4 bolts holding the flywheel and torque converter together. If you do not see the bolts, get a 3/4 inch socket on the crank and turn the crank clockwise. Eventually you will see the first bolt. Using a open box end wrench, you'll have to squeeze your greasy hands up between the oil pan and the bellhousing and remove this first bolt.

Tip: To make installation of flywheel to torque converter easier, take some paint and find a hole to where you could spray on the flywheel and the torque converter. This will mark the their relationship so you can line the torque converter up with the flywheel when doing the installation. BELIEVE ME, this is the HARDEST PART! Do it so you dont have to stay under there long during installation.

Keep turning the crank till you get all 4 bolts out.

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Step 7:

Its tight to get in here, especially if you dont have a body lift, but you will need to remove 4 bolts holding the bellhousing and the block together. There are two on the top center of the bellhousing, and two on the side. You may also have to remove more depending if you have a flywheel cover on there like i do.

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Step 8:

Connect your chain from the engine hoist to each side of the block. Put a bolt through a chain link and tighten it till you can anymore. Position on point of the chain on the front part of the block, and one on the back on the opposite side. It is easier if you make the chain tighter in front so the front of the block is angled up more when you are pulling the motor. This will allow the flywheel to come out of the bellhousing easier and also will give you better clearance with your front grill. Make sure you loosen the transmission mount bolts so the transmission will have some play when you are pulling the engine. The last thing you want to do is crack the bellhousing.

Unfortunately, i did not get a picture of pulling the engine out, because i did it myself. But here is a picture immediately after it was pulled.

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Step 9:

Strip all remaining parts off block including flywheel, oil pan, crank pulley, and timing chain cover. You will also need to pull off your motor mount block plates and motor mounts(depending if you are reusing your old motor mounts).

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Step 10:

Take a step back...Have a beer, and take a look at the mess you just made. It's a relief to know your half way done.

Here's a shot of my engine compartment without an engine. At this point, i rolled the jeep outside, pressure washed everything, degreased everything, sanded everything, and undercoated the firewall and framerails.

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Step 11:

Go ahead and shove the pallet in the back of your truck and drop your old jeep engine in your old jeep comanche. That is if your lucky enough to have one :cry1:

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Step 12: (Skip this step if you dont care about looks)

Go ahead and prep and paint anything and everything that you want to look good. Here i painted the valve cover with 5 coats of chrysler industrial red and 2 coats of clear. I did this to most parts that i wanted to look good.

Posted Image

Also, gather all your performance parts together and organize the gaskets.

Ford racing injectors, performance distributor, livewires, coil, rotor.
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MORE 1 inch motor mount lift, Borla headers.
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FlowKooler water pump vs. Stock. BIG differance! I was a bit skeptical, but believe me, it's AWESOME!
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Step 13:

Bolt on your water pump and thermostat housing onto the new block using the gaskets supplied with the engine. Also, your valve cover.

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Step 14: Bolt on your timing chain cover and rotate the motor upside down. I used RTV Copper on both the Oil pan under the 1 piece rubber seal and on the block itself. Make sure you get every corner and curve of the motor with the RTV. I ended up doing the entire pan and block with it since ive had bad experiences with leaks. I forgot to mention the Rear Main seal was already put on the block by chuck at Titan. I also forgot to mention the oil filter adapter that has to come off the block. I needed a 9/16ths hex socket to get mine off. It was a pain in the butt!

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Step 15:

Bolt the motor up to the engine hoist the same way you did with the motor you pulled and position it over the jeep. My dad came out and held some of the wiring harness back while i dropped the engine in and positioned it. Make sure before you drop the motor in, you have your motor mount block plates bolted up and your crank pulley bolted down.

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Step 16:Slowly drop the engine in and keep an eye out for clearance. If you bolted the block up to the chain properly, your block will be higher in the front and lower in the back. This will allow the flywheel to fit into the transmission easier. If the flywheel does not have enough room to fit into the bellhousing, get a floor jack under the transmission and jack it up. This will raise up the bellhousing. Once the flywheel is in for the most part and bottoming out on lower part of the bellhousing, you should lower the engine and transmission down in sync.

It's a little tricky to get the motor mounts lined up but if you got the flywheel in the transmission bellhousing, it gets a little easier. Two people are better than 1 when it comes to this part, but i did it by myself...so i can be done.

I just bolted down the motor mounts.
Posted Image


Step 17:

No pic, but go ahead and line the bellhousing up with the block and bolt them together. Now all you have to do is line up the torque converter and the fly wheel. Turn the crank, as you did before, and find the spot on the flywheel that is painted. Now get your little finger in one of the holes on the flywheel and turn the torque converter with your hand until the two paint spots match up between the torque converter and the flywheel. Ah ha! Perfection, put some loctite on the first flywheel to torque converter bolt and put it in. Torque it down. Then get on the crank and rotate it clockwise, as you did before when removing the bolts. Repeat with loctite and put in all 4 bolts. By bolt #2 or 3, the torque converter will pop forward onto the flywheel and seat itself. Dont worry, this is a good thing. If you want, crank it one more rotation and make sure all bolts are tight after the torque converter shifted.

Step 18:

Slip on the intake/exhaust gasket supplied with the engine and put in the 3 bolts for the header.

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With an automatic, the borla headers wont work...The reason for this is the shifting linkage bracket is in the way. So, remove the bolt that holds part of the shifting linkage bracket to the block. Next pull out a grinder and cut the bracket right at the corner where the bracket goes to the engine. Dont worry, there are two big bolts holding the shifting linkage to the flywheel. It will stay.

Step 19:

Next, get your engine to top dead center on #1 cylinder. You do this by Sticking your finger in #1 sparkplug hole and turning the crank. At the end of the compression stroke, and when you dont feel it pushing air anymore, stop turning the crank. Pour oil in the block, stick a drill in the distributor shaft hole and spin the oil pump to circulate the oil throughout the block so you dont have a dry start. Then position the "flat head" shaped oil pump to about 9 oclock position and drop your distributor into the hole. Your rotor should line up with #1 on your distributor cap. The rest of your timing will be set by the computer. You just have to get the initial timing right.

Connect your wires to your plugs and tighten the tensioner bolt at the bottom of the distributor. Also at this time, put in your coil.

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Step 20:

Start bolting everything else on. Your AC bracket, alternator bracket, Intake manifold, powersteering pump, throttle body, alternator, idler pulleys, clutch fan,starter, vacuum lines, radiator, heater hoses, AC compressor and airbox. Drop in the battery and bleed the air out of the fuel lines.

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She's ready to fire. Enjoy the damn near 100 horsepower gain.

-alex
-94 1 ton YJ - lifted/welded/300 ponies 4.7 Stroker/snorkel/winch/37 boggers 4sale
-04 superduty 6.0 diesel, hemlock performance transmission, ARP headstuds,EGR delete, SCT Livewire, 6" Procomp, exhaust,
-06 cummins 3500

www.southeasthay.com

#7 User is offline   John 

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Posted 02 April 2006 - 05:57 AM

WOW, what a FANTASTIC write up. You ought to send it to all the offroad magazines, I bet one of them or more would PUBLISH IT, better job then most I see and I get 4 different publications.
Frank, I and others are leaving today for our club 8 day Southern Carribean cruise so he may not respond, but I HOPE HE SEES how you cleaned up the engine well including the FIREWALL. (gg).
I presume you now have to burn Premium fuel? Is that correct? john

#8 User is offline   Alex 

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Posted 02 April 2006 - 10:35 AM

Maybe I will go ahead and clean it up and send it to one of those magazines! Good idea. Yea im burning premium fuel...they say i should...How necessary is it? To me, it seems to be that pump fuel is all the same...

Thanks much John, I said to myself this is the last time i want to have to do this with this wrangler. 4 engines is ENOUGH :lol: I hope yal have a good, safe, fun time on that cruise.

Again, thanks John.

-Alex :cry1:
-94 1 ton YJ - lifted/welded/300 ponies 4.7 Stroker/snorkel/winch/37 boggers 4sale
-04 superduty 6.0 diesel, hemlock performance transmission, ARP headstuds,EGR delete, SCT Livewire, 6" Procomp, exhaust,
-06 cummins 3500

www.southeasthay.com

#9 User is offline   Jim B 

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  Posted 03 April 2006 - 01:20 PM

I like it! :lol: Wished I would have been there with you to increase my shade tree mechanical learing. :lol: Keep us informed on any tweaks.
Posted Image Posted Image
El Niņo
Experience is defined as something you get, after you need it.
Give the world the best you have. The best will come back to you...

There are no rules for good photographs, there are only good photographs.
"Thou shalt not bear false witness against thy neighbour." 9th Commandment.
"Speak not Evil of the absent for it is unjust." George Washington, Rule 89 of Civility and Decent Behavior.
Wheeling Gallery ----- E-Mail
Life Member: South Florida Jeep Club

#10 User is offline   Frank YJ 

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Posted 03 April 2006 - 06:02 PM

turned out really Good Alex... to bad i couldn't be aorund to help... looks like your getting to better than me on the shade tree back yard mechanic...

:lol: :lol: :lol:
93 yj lifted snorked, soon to be locked "crunchy"
80 cj5 383 1tons propane "greenie"
1949 CJ3A "turtle"
1955 & 1950 willys pickup
02 ford superduty tow rig
07 chevy aveo

#11 User is offline   Alex 

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Posted 06 April 2006 - 01:36 PM

Im gonna try to trailer it up to spring scramble to wheel it. We'll see aint got much meat on the shoes...yo.


Jim, i wouldve enjoyed the help of another person as it is not easy lowering an engine in while guiding it to land the flywheel in the bellhousing and the motor mounts in the right spot.

And one more thing...Incase you guys didnt know this...before i met frank, i didnt know how to change my own gear oil out of the diffs. Frank, your knowledge far surpasses my brain capacity. Thanks for all the help getting me to where i am now. your a real inspiration. :cool: uh huh, give me a moment.


Ah much better :2thumup:

Cant wait to get through 500 miles so i can really open it up.

-alex
-94 1 ton YJ - lifted/welded/300 ponies 4.7 Stroker/snorkel/winch/37 boggers 4sale
-04 superduty 6.0 diesel, hemlock performance transmission, ARP headstuds,EGR delete, SCT Livewire, 6" Procomp, exhaust,
-06 cummins 3500

www.southeasthay.com

#12 User is offline   p1atinum 

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Posted 06 April 2006 - 08:39 PM

Alex,

Great write up. I have been thinking about stroking the XJ, i had no Idea Titan was so close this give me more hope.

see any issues with it yet. hell is it even broken it yet
Aerodynamically Challenged
97'XJ 6" RE springs, Dana 30 with custom high steer TNT Y-link, Dana 44 Rear W/Discs, 4.56 geared, detroit locked front & Rear, 35 12.50 BFG Mt, front Rigid Co bumper, Warn Winch, Led tail lights, Viair, bunch of other goodies!

#13 User is offline   Alex 

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Posted 09 April 2006 - 11:33 AM

Thanks Platinum,

Titan Engines is also known as Motor parts of Ocala...But they market it as Titan Engines. Chuck, the guy that builds the strokers, called me personally checking up on how everything was going. This makes me feel extremely comfortable with my big investment. The fact that someone cares to see if i got it in properly, how its running, what parts did you use, how does it feel....ect is so freakin cool. We started shootin the shiaa about the motors and competitors of his. He said that they were great companies but way too over priced....i agree.

Long story short...he has built for drag racing, to mud, to rock crawling...tuning the motors to the customers specs. Tell him what you want...you got it. Thats the best part...the service.

I highly recommend titan engines of ocala.

-alex
-94 1 ton YJ - lifted/welded/300 ponies 4.7 Stroker/snorkel/winch/37 boggers 4sale
-04 superduty 6.0 diesel, hemlock performance transmission, ARP headstuds,EGR delete, SCT Livewire, 6" Procomp, exhaust,
-06 cummins 3500

www.southeasthay.com

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