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CJ8 to M170 Conversion

#91 User is offline   Jim B 

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Posted 07 March 2009 - 05:46 PM

Hey Rollbar, how many coats of the red primer are you applying and how long of a dry in between, same with the OD :scratch:

Looking clean my good man. :1thumb:
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#92 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 14 March 2009 - 12:27 PM

View PostJim B, on Mar 7 2009, 06:46 PM, said:

Hey Rollbar, how many coats of the red primer are you applying and how long of a dry in between, same with the OD :2thumup:

Looking clean my good man. :good:



Two coats of each and I let it dry about an hour cause this stuff drys fast.
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#93 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 14 March 2009 - 12:33 PM

I have to cut down my rear DS. I was told I grind off the weld to get the yoke off, the cut the DS & re-weld the yoke. Is this how I should do it?
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#94 User is offline   soflmuddin 

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Posted 14 March 2009 - 05:13 PM

yes. grind the weld flat and then use a porta-band, band saw or sawall. cut in the center of where the weld was about 1/8" , you will be able to see the line where the two metal were joined. hammer in apart, cut to length and reweld. pretty painless.



man, the bottom of your tub came out clean. good job. :2thumup:
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#95 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 14 March 2009 - 07:50 PM

A friend of mine has a metal cut off saw so that should work.

?-Now, how bout length. How much should I cut, 2". What is the rule of thumb as far as compression goes. How bout balancing, if I keep the yoke in the same spot and don't go/cut above the weight I should be good to go, right.

P.S. I guess I could visit T-Woods' site to find out unless someone here has a better link etc.

#96 User is offline   soflmuddin 

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Posted 14 March 2009 - 08:53 PM

if you didnt gain more travel or drop that should be fine. you will have to adjust for what you gained more of drop or down travel otherwise. if i was there i could tell you exactly where is the best location. i fab driveshafts often. i did one today a cv shaft, going from a 208 to a toyota rear on a samurai. the best for offroad guaranteed travel is square tube shafts. i will do a write up on those soon.
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#97 User is offline   JeepinIan 

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Posted 15 March 2009 - 03:42 PM

Measure @ full droop, and then at full compression. THat will tell you how long/short you need the shaft. IMO, go for full droop, and then put a bump stop if you can't get full compression w/ the slip spline length you have. And yes, the is the way to shorten a d-shaft.
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#98 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 19 March 2009 - 01:00 PM

Trans cooler to add to the build-Hayden 1404 complements of TransTech (5410 W. State Road 84) in Davie, Florida 33314
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Thanks Dino :banghead1:

#99 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 19 March 2009 - 01:11 PM

Received my reconditioned 3 core radiator today, thanks to Bobby (CoolBeans) and his radiator guy.
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Thanks CoolBeans :banghead1:

#100 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 08 April 2009 - 01:29 PM

Installed the trany lines and plumbed in the gas tank. Ready to set the tub on Saturday.

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Mounted the lines on the motor mount for easy removal & they are far enough from the exhaust manifold.
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Tank plumbed in. Ran vent line through the frame to the front/charcoal canister. Covered the S-Steel lines to prevent chaffing.
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#101 User is offline   Trailblazer 

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Posted 08 April 2009 - 02:00 PM

Did you build/bend the brake lines yourself or was that a kit?
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#102 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 09 April 2009 - 11:16 AM

Pre bent from In-Line tube, they fit perfect. Stainless Steel lines :cheergirls:

Here is what was accomplished this morning.
Rear brake hose installed
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T-case vent line installed
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Now I won't have to crawl under the Jeep on Saturday when we install the tub :thankyou:

#103 User is offline   Jim B 

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Posted 09 April 2009 - 02:10 PM

Darn Jim, those steel flex lines look really nice. Can you tell us all the places that you have used the flex steel lines in addition to the ones posted. :cheergirls:
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El Niņo
Experience is defined as something you get, after you need it.
Give the world the best you have. The best will come back to you...

There are no rules for good photographs, there are only good photographs.
"Thou shalt not bear false witness against thy neighbour." 9th Commandment.
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#104 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 10 April 2009 - 08:31 PM

I tried to get the footman loops in a straight line so I didn't have to spread them like U see on the motor mount but couldn't find them. Those flex lines are from Advance Adapters (7 feet long, I was going to route it down the passenger side but changed my mind. Wanted better access if I wanted to change them out. Running on the P-side would have tied them up on the bell housing and :nono: , a pain to replace if need be) and they use "RUSSEL" fitting (good to know if U get some). I finished getting the barb for the trany cooler tonight at H-Depot and have everything plumbed and ready for the tub set/1"BL on Saturday. Carb is bolted down and all I have to buy is the Lokar throttle kick down next week and find a throttle cable (A-Zone has some). But to answer your question the flex lines are awesome and sturdy/well built. I am going to run one on the double pumper carb :rof: and run my fuel line up the fire wall. All other places are S-Steel pre-bent lines from In-Line Tube.

Stay tuned, the end is getting near (then I have to go to TransTech and get him to do some magic when the donations come in).

Signed,
The Turtle

#105 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 11 April 2009 - 08:27 PM

Well thanks to some of the CCJ club, the tub was installed today along with the 1" daystar BL. Sorry I couldn't get more involved pics but someone had to do something ;) Next week, prep/paint.

Scott had to weld the two rear nuts inside the frame, when tightening, they spun.
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Looks like I need to do some touch up painting, in the end of course.
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Notice the Twin Stick and the notch cut out, just enough and the original cover will still fit like original.
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#106 User is offline   SodMan 

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Posted 12 April 2009 - 10:12 PM

Sweet, Lookin good. Your front drive shaft is still riding around in the back of my truck.
Life is short, BOG it to the hub!!!!!!!
1977 CJ7, d30 frt/ARB locker/4:56, amc20widetrack rear w/Blue torch truss system/Detroit locker, molly one piece axles/4:56. MT classic lock rims w/15.5x15x35 TSL's, 4" skyjacker under spring lift +1" body lift + 11/4" shackel lift, anti wrap adjustable stabalizers, sway bar disconects, Warn front bumper w/9000#winch,Warn rear bumper w/matching spare. dry box. linex tub, 3R racing seats w/ 4way harnesess, tuffy security console, tuffy overhead console w/JVC cd and cobra C.B. Rear soundbar, Diamond plate rear corner guards and rocker guards. Aluminum dash w/ultralite guages and megellen GPS. windsheild mounted warn h/l beam off road lights. Under the hood??? AMC, not Ford, Not Cheverolet, not Dodge, but AMC 401 w/goodies tied to a built TH400 pushing through a D300 w/ Currie twin stick. IT STILL GET'S STUCK! The GPS is for locating gas stations!!!!!!!!!! A/C = holes in floor, no windows and bikini top!

#107 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 13 April 2009 - 04:56 PM

Well, removed some surface rust, use por's metal ready, primed the bare spots to prevent more rust, sanded and wet sanded the tub. Next I will go over some shiners & the prime the entire tub with Red Oxide Primer.

Welded tailgate & primed it
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Sanded & ground the tub's rust spots
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Getting ready to "Metal Ready" the tub's rusted areas
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Wet down driveway
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Primed bare spots after wet sanding
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Sanded outside of tub
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Wet sanding outside of tub
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Primed bare spots after wet sanding
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CJ's RULE :scratch:
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#108 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 21 April 2009 - 09:56 PM

OK, the prep is done for the U-POL Raptor spray in bedliner. I have to wash it tomorrow morning and then tape it off/spray it.
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Below are some pics of the POR-15 applied.

Bulkhead
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Backside of windshield hinges
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Windshield mounting locations
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Front cowl. This will stay since it is behind the dash etc.
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Drivers side door jamb just above the joint
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Bulkhead joint and side walls done
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Bulkhead installed
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Now here is where I sanded the tub w/180 grit and hand sanded/buffed the tub w/a red Scotch pad per the U-POL instructions. I added the 180 grit, wanted the stuff to stick as good as it can.
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Tomorrow I wash the tub, air dry it, tape it off and spray :thumbsup:

#109 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 22 April 2009 - 03:13 PM

Taping tub off for Raptor bed-liner spray
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Taping off the bolt holes etc.
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Shooting the Raptor. IMO, a lot better then the roll on liner for the ease of application/looks
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First coat shot and out in the sun to bake
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Having fun
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Touch up out in the sun so I could see better
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Finished, removing tape
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Jr removing some tape
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Jr removing the tape off the foot of the roll bar
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Tub complete
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Tub complete, sorry about the camera angle
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OD color contrast on how it will look when completed
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Ok I'm tired and I am very please w/this product. Prep was 180 grit and then followed up by a red Scotch pad. I wanted it really scuffed due to some of the POR-15 used and old paint on top of paint. Way to easy w/the spray on. I had the compressor @ 120psi and regulated the spray @ the gun. I did some test shots w/just air w/the compressor set @ 50psi to get the feel, then raised the compressor and adjusted @ the gun. Worked out well and when I changed bottles I just unhooked the air line to keep the consistency for the next bottle. After the first coat & stuck the gun in some lacquer thinner and shot until the gun was clean. Waited an hour while it bakes in the sun & shot the last coat w/the main object concentrating on the bed since it will take the most abuse. So, how does it look? I'm sure it will pop when the OD gets on there. :scratch:
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#110 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 23 April 2009 - 04:52 PM

Fenders & hood sanded
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POR-15 on lightly rusted areas
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POR-15 on battery tray, hood support, vacuum can, jack plate & fender supports
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Since I am doing OD & black I think the black accents under the hood would look good.
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#111 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 24 April 2009 - 05:58 PM

Washed everything down for final paint
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Taped off ready for final paint
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Jr. putting on the final tape touches
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Testing spray gun pattern
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Painting hood
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Grill painted
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Roll bar painted
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Hood & bumper painted
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Fender painted, need final coat on the inner panel
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Painting tub
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Waiting second coat-this stuff drys fast in this heat so I waited about 30min
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Applying second heavy coat
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Tailgate latches OD
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Final paint now drying
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Installing rock guards later so they will hide the damaged spots & I fill /soaked them w/POR-15
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Roll bar foot sprayed w/U-POL to blend in w/the bed-liner
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Underside of hood, note the black accents w/POR-15
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Look at that sweet CJ grill, just as happy as can be
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#112 User is offline   Jim B 

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Posted 25 April 2009 - 10:02 AM

Darn Jim, what a way to document your steps in what you see is what you get. :2thumup:

What a sweet Olive Drab color. :paint: That hanging CJ grill is a work of art. :good:

Keep taking good care of the 8 for me. Let me know whey you are ready to drop it off. :banddrum: :clap:
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El Niņo
Experience is defined as something you get, after you need it.
Give the world the best you have. The best will come back to you...

There are no rules for good photographs, there are only good photographs.
"Thou shalt not bear false witness against thy neighbour." 9th Commandment.
"Speak not Evil of the absent for it is unjust." George Washington, Rule 89 of Civility and Decent Behavior.
Wheeling Gallery ----- E-Mail
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#113 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 27 April 2009 - 09:15 PM

Battery tray painted w/POR-15
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Vacuum can & jack plated painter w/POR-15
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Protection plate
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Steering shaft installed
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Fender braces mocked up
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Front clip installed
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Front turn signals painted (will install military lighting later when I have time to figure it out)
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ROUND headlight bezels painted
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Lights installed in the grill
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Note: all hardware is stainless steel, nuts, bolts, washers, loc-washers.
*MY CJ IS YOUR yJ's DADDY*
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#114 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 08:24 PM

(NOS) WWII snorkel parts painted
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(NOS) WWII snorkel mast re-painted
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(NOS) WWII snorkel mast mounted with stainless steel bolts
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Roll bar bolted in with grade 8 bolts which will be touched up with black paint
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(NOS) Reflector location
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(NOS) Snorkel nose being straightened
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*MY CJ IS YOUR yJ's DADDY*
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#115 User is offline   LostJ 

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 08:29 PM

looks great so far. Are you going to fix the rust that is on the rockers?
74' CJ5
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#116 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 09:15 PM

View PostLostJ, on Apr 28 2009, 09:29 PM, said:

Are you going to fix the rust that is on the rockers?


Rust is fixed. I prepped it w/Metal Ready and soaked it w/POR-15 so it's sealed very well, My little welder wouldn't turn down low and even w/spot welding it would melt the thin metal so I decided to coat the entire bottom w/POR-15 and all rusted areas. I am going to build rock guard panels so they will hide those spots & function as well and I am going to coat the back side w/POR-15. All joints where metal bolts to metal has POR-15 on each side :rolleyes:

#117 User is offline   Jim B 

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Posted 29 April 2009 - 07:12 AM

Jim, nice documentation on you build, you will look back when you done after a few years and really enjoy these shots. Some might think we are crazy for looking at these pictures but that is exactly how I feel, especially the trail runs. Our last Oct trip is still fresh on my mind thanks the pics. :amazed:

Keep that Olive Drab coming. :lol: What an awesome CJ Grill! :2thumup:
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El Niņo
Experience is defined as something you get, after you need it.
Give the world the best you have. The best will come back to you...

There are no rules for good photographs, there are only good photographs.
"Thou shalt not bear false witness against thy neighbour." 9th Commandment.
"Speak not Evil of the absent for it is unjust." George Washington, Rule 89 of Civility and Decent Behavior.
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#118 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 29 April 2009 - 09:35 PM

Snorkel installed
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Final hose placement
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Measuring for cut out
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Cutting hole, note the safety gear
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Trimming fender lip, gotta love the guard on the cutter
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Trimming fender edge with a file
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After many times of raising the hood for fitment we have finished. I know the front is supposed to have a "S" shape but I wanted it close.
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Front snorkel & clip
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Jr getting the wiring sorted and cleaning up the parking brake connector
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Under hood wiring
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Jr getting the dash stripped for paint
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Dizzy pigtail from PO
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Dizzy pigtail from PO, notice the green wire on this tail
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Dizzy pigtail from factory harness
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Wiring under hood
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*MY CJ IS YOUR yJ's DADDY*
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#119 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 09:28 PM

Jr. sanding dash panel
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Dash panel painted and drying
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Dash panel dried
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Spare mount, need to add spacer and angle up-wards for the 33" tire to fit
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Reflector mounted in the area of the original Jeep M-170
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Jr. laying out the figures for the name placement
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Jr. laying out the name
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Last name layed out
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Whole name layed out
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Stripping away the tape to reveal the name
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Name complete
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After scuffing the letter cut outs with a scotch pad I painted the name on the Jeep
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Name revealed. This was my old name on the Willy's, it came from the Military with it on the Jeep so I thought I would resurrect it
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*MY CJ IS YOUR yJ's DADDY*
'48 Willys; '74CJ5; '80CJ7; '84 CJ8; '86 CJ7

*Who Needs A Stinking Manual When You Have A Fat Wallet For Tech Support!*

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#120 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 04 May 2009 - 01:28 PM

To replace the heater core. Remove the back cover, use a 1/4" driver and it takes a 1/4" socket.
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Remove heater core
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Replace heater core and reinstall the back cover
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After installing the back panel paint the panel with POR-15 to prevent rust from reoccurring
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Tape of gauges for paint
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Paint the back side of the dash with POR-15 to prevent rust in the joints and where the metal to metal meet
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