[SoilantGreen]

Tom Dooby from the Mid Florida Jeep Club did a write up on LEDs in a military light fixture. As a matter of fact, I believe he still has them on his TJ. They just fit between the tailgate hinges on a TJ. I'd start with the MFJC's forum and see if you can reach him there and maybe he'd help you find his tech write up. http://mfjc.21.forumer.com/index.php?sid=c...b3786b0e8a1c574



Now a modern set should be able to be converted to 12 volt with turn signals fairly easily. I'd personally put yellow bulbs in the driving lights (the small ones with the long rectangular clear lenses and the small triangles insides where the lights shine through. They'd probably make decent turn signals.

The Mighty Mite has only one stop light and no turn signals. I believe modern 24 volt lights have better push button controls for the lighting and might be easier to convert to turn signals/dual brake lights. Have you looked into the HMMVW rear lights or do you want to keep that fake/authentic M170 style?

[Rollbar]

SoilantGreen, on Jan 18 2009, 07:46 PM, said:

Tom Dooby from the Mid Florida Jeep Club did a write up on LEDs in a military light fixture. As a matter of fact, I believe he still has them on his TJ. They just fit between the tailgate hinges on a TJ. I'd start with the MFJC's forum and see if you can reach him there and maybe he'd help you find his tech write up. http://mfjc.21.forumer.com/index.php?sid=c...b3786b0e8a1c574

Thank you I will check on it.

Quote

Now a modern set should be able to be converted to 12 volt with turn signals fairly easily. I'd personally put yellow bulbs in the driving lights (the small ones with the long rectangular clear lenses and the small triangles insides where the lights shine through. They'd probably make decent turn signals.

The Mighty Mite has only one stop light and no turn signals. I believe modern 24 volt lights have better push button controls for the lighting and might be easier to convert to turn signals/dual brake lights.

Interesting, sounds like a plan

Quote

Have you looked into the HMMVW rear lights or do you want to keep that fake/authentic M170 style?

Now Dave, I have to keep up w/the theme or the boyz will shoot me after going through all this.

[JeepinIan]

For turn/stop, which are the same filament in the bulb, all you have to do is wire everything like it was in the CJ-8. The brake wiring goes frmo the brake light switch to the turn signal switch and separates there going into 2 separates wires, with only one side going through the flasher unit at a time. The emergency flashers go through a separate flasher unit.
As far a legalities, I believe that you ave to have turn signals if it came with it from the factory. It amy be a replica of a M170, btu if/when you get pulled over by the police, they could have issues w/ no signals. (I know, even the cops don't use signals)

[Rollbar]

Thanks Ian, I plan on tracing the wires @ the light plug just like U say and hooking them up using a 12V regular bulb (if it will fit the socket). I am about ready to flip the tub on its side to work on the underside after I finish the brake lines & my gas tank install. Moving right a long.

P.S. Dave, I haven't found Tom D yet but a guy who helped him, he hasn't replied so I'm not sure if he knows how or not.

P.S.S. DAVE, in reference to the tail/rear light hook up. The factory military lights have the screw plug to hook them up, I do not have any & would like to splice them into the CJ's harness @ the light its self so I can just switch connections. Do U know where I can get some (I know Midwest military) locally, maybe off your shelf

OOps-after further review I'm not sure I an do that Dave.

Here is a picture of the front/rear lights & there connectors. Am I better off gutting the wiring, I was thinking of splicing but w/the one wire I don't think it will happen. I'm trying to remember, I think the center electrode is the current & there is shielding around it for a ground etc. unless the Jeep body is the ground.

With no turn etc. all they needed was one electrode. I just hate hacking up NOS products.

[JeepinIan]

With the single wire contact @ the bulb housing, you will not be able to use the dual filament bulbs. IMO, gut the housing and install dual filament sockets. It may be a shame to gut a perfectly good housing, but that is what will be needed to update the lights to current standards.
On single filament lights, the center contact is power. On dual element bulbs, there are 2 power contacts in the bottom of the socket, 1 for taillight, and one for the signal/brake light.
Remember, the dual filament bulbs have 2 lugs on the sides that are different distances fromthe base of the bulb. The single filament has 2 lugs at the same distane from teh base of the bulb.
What may be easier to adapt is the new spade type bulbs that do not ahve the metal base around the bulb.
As you know, if you go to LED, you have to get a resisitor in the system so the signals will not flash at a high rate of speed.

[SoilantGreen]

Rollbar, I have the remains of the Mighty Mite's wiring harness which is not only dirty but old. I bought a new repro from Vintage Wiring of Maine. Joe Hall makes exact duplicates of old truck harnesses and he's good people.

That being said, you're welcome to whatever I have left from the Mite's old 24V stuff. There's a couple of different sizes of waterproof male and female connectors, so it may not help as much as you're hoping.

[Rollbar]

JeepinIan, on Jan 19 2009, 11:00 AM, said:

With the single wire contact @ the bulb housing, you will not be able to use the dual filament bulbs. IMO, gut the housing and install dual filament sockets. It may be a shame to gut a perfectly good housing, but that is what will be needed to update the lights to current standards.
On single filament lights, the center contact is power. On dual element bulbs, there are 2 power contacts in the bottom of the socket, 1 for taillight, and one for the signal/brake light.
Remember, the dual filament bulbs have 2 lugs on the sides that are different distances fromthe base of the bulb. The single filament has 2 lugs at the same distane from teh base of the bulb.
What may be easier to adapt is the new spade type bulbs that do not ahve the metal base around the bulb.
As you know, if you go to LED, you have to get a resisitor in the system so the signals will not flash at a high rate of speed.

Thank you Ian & I did forget about the resistor.

SoilantGreen, on Jan 19 2009, 11:23 AM, said:

Rollbar, I have the remains of the Mighty Mite's wiring harness which is not only dirty but old. I bought a new repro from Vintage Wiring of Maine. Joe Hall makes exact duplicates of old truck harnesses and he's good people.

That being said, you're welcome to whatever I have left from the Mite's old 24V stuff. There's a couple of different sizes of waterproof male and female connectors, so it may not help as much as you're hoping.

Dave, if you think it can help (I could use the water proof boots where they connect) cause I have to do the front as well, it really STINKS, these are excellent built lights. Trying to keep true the the FAKE/Authentic build

PM me & we will figure out something, I will not need them for about three weeks when I put the tub on.

Thanks again guy's.

[Rollbar]

Well, the SS hard brake lines are installed. Next, the soft rubber hoses.

[Jim B]

Hey Jim, looking at the rear brake line on the driver side.

I know you already did the bending but is there any way you can route the line up and not following the tube

Not sure where you would take the vehicle off road but if you back up into a tree, rock, etc you might just dent, pinch or take out the line. I had to weld a square small half channel to the axle tube to protect mine as I had no other way to go up. I actually took one out a few years back.

Now that you have the tub off (if the gas tank does not get in the way) see if you can go up and follow the cross member support over to the other side.

[Rollbar]

Good catch, I'll look into it & see if I have enough to bend it that route, if not then I will weld a small piece of channel on the housing.

If I were to go up and over I would have to use rubber from the top center as seen in pic #3. I'll see what I can do, I'm on a very limited budget (no work) & installing the items I have previously purchased. That is another reason I had to SUA the Jeep, DS costs etc. SodMan has a front DS for an auto he is donating to the project & I have the rear out of the J-10 I am going to grind the yoke weld off & shorten as well, I guess U will want a write up on that to . I'll look into it, thanks.

P.S. Those who would like to donate to the project VIA parts or $ will get there name on the inside of the bed as a memorial As for U SodMan- I will just grow some grass in the back , no WildBill, yard grass

[Rollbar]

Ok, I moved the brake lines so they wouldn't be in the way while backing. I will fine tune them later when I install the brake hose's.


Here are some pics of the underside of the CJ8 tub. Getting ready to clean/prime/paint.

Rear:


Middle:


Front:


Whole tub:

[Rollbar]

Look what I found:




Tub rusted areas sprayed w/Metal ready. Now, the directions do not say, but do you rinse the M-ready off. I don't think so.

[Rollbar]

One Qt of Por-15 painted w/a brush.

[SoilantGreen]

I bet that will be on your hands for days...weeks even.

[Rollbar]

I know, I had gloves on but..... Stinks

The blue is painters tape over the bolt holes for the body. I didn't have enough for the wheel wells and back up in where the tail lights go but I can always do it later, easy to get to. I still have some rust I need to clean up and do on the inside so I might have to get a pint of the stuff or just shoot it w/R-Oxide or something more modern.

[Rollbar]

Well, I used up all but two spray cans of the 23070 OD from Gillespie's, still have one gallon of 23070 OD left, two spray cans & one gallon of the Red Oxide left. Had two get my money's worth even if I spent it three years ago. I could have enhanced some of the pics but I wanted them left as is.







Enhanced version:


Taping the holes two days after the Por-15 & paint job. Yes, those couple of holes in the floor pan are for historical purposes

[Rollbar]

OK, here it goes. Need a little help here.

I took out the filler cause I was looking @ options as far as mounting the military lights. As you can see, there is plenty of room if the filler is moved to the side of the Jeep. Now, if I don't move it, the light on the filler side will not work (veryyyyy tight, maybe, doubt it) unless I mount it outside & just through bolted it (look like ) to the tub, it would stick out just as far as the stock (oh, no) square tail lights.

Below are some pics of my meaning.



Don't rag me about the paint job, remember what Dave said.


Now, it will fit up in there a little more, the plastic housing is holding it back.


The gas lines run through this hole. Also, look @ the fillers metal, where it mounts to the plastic it is ROUND . I could get rid of the plastic housing & just hole saw the outside & mount it using an old style cap. Second thought, just hit me this second, if it is there & I hit some trees etc. .......... Maybe to much to worry about.


Showing the metal rib on the right of the plastic housing.


See, there is room up in the triangle section.

[Rollbar]

Well sanded, primed & painted the Sway bar tonight. I also tweeked the twin stick brackets for a final fitting (had to weld a bridge & re-grind one) tonight, primed & paint them as well.








Twin stick brackets-fit like a glove.




Note: All OD will be touched up @ final inspection. Still using up those rattle cans.

[Jim B]

Darn Jimmy, your project is starting to look terrific. Did you try the military lights to see if you can make them work yet

[Rollbar]

No, I haven't tried the lights yet, might get the tub mounted & then when the time comes work on the electrical.

[92SquareEye]

Rollbar, on Jan 28 2009, 09:49 AM, said:

No, I haven't tried the lights yet, might get the tub mounted & then when the time comes work on the electrical.

you want to run your rear tub wiring harness before you put the tub on, if at all possible. you never know how big your fingers are until you try to fit them in those spots after the tub is on the frame.

-dave

[JeepinIan]

IIRC, the CJ wiring harness runs inside the cab of the tub, not underneath. THe harness goes to the tailights through a hole in the left rear of the tub.

[Rollbar]

Yep,helps keep them out of the dirt/H20 (maybe ). See, the old designers had some horse since.

I think it might be best when the tub is on & the battery hooked up, then I can get some bulbs out of stock and try the wiring etc.

Did U read my post in POST #77?

[Rollbar]

Mock up of twin stick (maybe could use one more washer but I have to think about it), I tried the bushing as per the write up on this forum but it seemed to go easier w/washers. I also used the old pins for the shift rails as the others were short calling for a 3/4" (really needs to be about 1 1/4"-1 1/2"Max by the time you get the washer/loc-washer/nut on etc.) I will not bend the shifter itself until the tub is on & I see where I want it. I did have to open the hole where the pins go on the flat-stock as they were tight. If you used the flat-stock dimensions (I recommend you do) you will need a Dremel to fine tune it but you will be happy with the results.

So, for about 30 bucks I have twin stick (the shifter was 15 bucks), but that was three years ago, might be cheaper now due to the economy.

Twin Stick Post

Mock up of the sticks.

[TranyDoctor]

you died your hair or this project aged you

looks good, can not wait to see it done in 2059. thats my b-day i will be 100.
we must have a drink when my willys is done.

[Rollbar]

Well, hopefully my plans will be when it's finished to yank the TF-999 (@ your shop) when I get it built so U can go through it & beef it up more & add OD.

We will C.

Yes, I have gotten some what wiser

[Rollbar]

Do U think the fuel line is to close to the exhaust manifold? I'm not sure, that's why I'm asking. The collector is only 1 3/4" away. My thinking is maybe to bend it back & run it up the tub when I get it on unless it's alright here. Or, maybe install a heat shield.



Here's where it is 1 3/4" away @ the closest point.


Thanks,

[JeepinIan]

Personally, I would try to get as much distance from the exhaust as possible. You can't get the fuel too far away from heat.

[Jim B]

If it worries you purchase a wrap around shield.

[Rollbar]

Got the gas tank painted & installed. 1985 factory 20 gallon polly tank.

Sender


Top of tank-vents


Tank prepped/cleaned & painted w/Red Oxide




Tank painted w/23070 OD




Tank installed