AMC V8 TFI upgrade Nice upgrade
#1
Posted 26 May 2005 - 03:33 PM
Frank
TFI upgrade 1
TFI upgrade 2-see post #11, scroll down.
#2
Posted 26 May 2005 - 04:19 PM
'48 Willys; '74CJ5; '80CJ7; '84 CJ8; '86 CJ7
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#3
Posted 26 May 2005 - 04:28 PM
#4
Posted 26 May 2005 - 04:58 PM
Frank :lightf:
#5
Posted 04 September 2005 - 10:40 AM
I have opted to go the route most expensive initially, but less expensive over a 3-4 year course. Davies Unified Ignition Systems are the ONLY correction that is yet unparalelled. For about $400.00 USD, you get a WHOLE new distributor, guts, bearings, cap, rotor...ALL. You have all seen them in your infamous chevy engines. GM called it HEI, and it WORKS. I have had mine for a year now, and I'll never need another "magic box" in the tool box.
#6
Posted 01 May 2006 - 04:06 PM
#7
Posted 17 June 2006 - 01:03 AM
Did you get it in yet ??
How are you liking it so far ?
I've had mine now for about 18 mos, and have not one complaint.
#8 Guest_Mongo_*
Posted 17 June 2006 - 08:54 AM
At some point I may put a ballast resistor in behind it to "tone down" it's voltage because it increased horsepower WAY too much when I gapped out to 50.
#9
Posted 03 July 2006 - 10:54 AM
You are correct about the wiring, I switched over to a delco internally regulated alt, and did the single wire hookup, it works the same as the single wire alt, but does not self energize until you rev it to about 1500 rpm. Once it wakes up, it's on til you shut it down.
WAY less wires under the hood now.....
#10
Posted 23 September 2007 - 07:19 PM
1. The wires from the distributor to the module need to be twisted together.
This helps keep transient electrical noise out of the distributor signal.
2. The module "White" wire should only be 'Hot' (12+ volts) when your engine is cranking.
3. The module 'Red' wire should be 'Hot' (12+ Volts) when the engine is running.
4. No wires need to be twisted together EXCEPT for the distributor signal wires.
(Orange & Violet)
These wires need to be kept away from the module power wires, the spark plug wires and any other wires if you can keep from it...
Run them on top of the engine, along the sheet metal, close to metal all the way to the module.
5. If you are running a factory type DuraSpark module, you will need to use a 1.35 Ohm resistor (or the 1.35 Ohm resistor wire in the harness) feeding the ignition coil.
If you do not use a resistor, your module won't live long.
6. This is a pretty good diagram for wiring your ignition...
It is (more or less, depending on year) the stock wiring diagram, but done correctly.
'48 Willys; '74CJ5; '80CJ7; '84 CJ8; '86 CJ7
*Who Needs A Stinking Manual When You Have A Fat Wallet For Tech Support!*
*What man is a man who does not make the world better*
Support the Central Florida Bible Camp for kids
#11
Posted 23 September 2007 - 09:48 PM
CJ7 Swamp Buggy
#12
Posted 29 September 2007 - 11:04 PM
1977 CJ7, d30 frt/ARB locker/4:56, amc20widetrack rear w/Blue torch truss system/Detroit locker, molly one piece axles/4:56. MT classic lock rims w/15.5x15x35 TSL's, 4" skyjacker under spring lift +1" body lift + 11/4" shackel lift, anti wrap adjustable stabalizers, sway bar disconects, Warn front bumper w/9000#winch,Warn rear bumper w/matching spare. dry box. linex tub, 3R racing seats w/ 4way harnesess, tuffy security console, tuffy overhead console w/JVC cd and cobra C.B. Rear soundbar, Diamond plate rear corner guards and rocker guards. Aluminum dash w/ultralite guages and megellen GPS. windsheild mounted warn h/l beam off road lights. Under the hood??? AMC, not Ford, Not Cheverolet, not Dodge, but AMC 401 w/goodies tied to a built TH400 pushing through a D300 w/ Currie twin stick. IT STILL GET'S STUCK! The GPS is for locating gas stations!!!!!!!!!! A/C = holes in floor, no windows and bikini top!