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136Amp Alternator Upgrade High Output Alternator

#1 User is offline   jeepincj78 

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Posted 12 April 2005 - 02:00 PM

I found this on another site and I thought some of you would find it usefull. As a matter of fact, I am probably gonna do this upgrade when I get my engine back together.

Frank

ps I just got off the phone with my local parts parts source and they verified that the alternator IS THE SAME ON THE 93 YJ ENGINE 4.0

Quote

PRELUDE
OK, for some time now, I was wanting to add an electric fan to my beast. I was really wanting to install one of the 91-95 3.8L Taurus dual-speed fans that is the new fad now. The only problem with this was the 33A continuous draw and 100+A startup draw. So, that meant, that the stock 90A alternator would be working it's tail off. The only other option that I had, besides the out of the question $300+ hi-amp alternator upgrade, was to purchase a decent aftermarket fan that drew only around 10A or so continuous. The only problem with this is that these fans are not too cheap. So, I went on a mission to find a replacement hi-amp OEM alternator. I read about people looking at 120 amp models and one mention of a 136 amp model but nobody, as far as I know, ever confirmed that any of these would even work on paper. Guess what, for a mere $30, I was able to upgrade to a 136 amp alternator with very, very little effort! You say this can't be true, well folks, it is and I am about to show you!

WHAT YOU NEED AND FOR WHAT
Ok, now, I know that the OEM 90 amp alternator(OEM PN:56005685AB) in my 97 TJ was also used in the following:


1997-1998 Dodge Dakota


1991-1998 Jeep Cherokee


1991-1992 Jeep Comanche


1992-1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee


1991-1998 Jeep Wrangler

Note: I have only confirmed this entire modification on a 1997 4.0L Jeep Wrangler. I am unsure as to what motor combinations the above vehicles came with in conjunction with this particular 90A alternator. This is an "ON YOUR OWN AND YOUR OWN RISK" type of modification. If your wiring is not up to the task, etc., you could burn your jeep to the ground or injure yourself. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!

Here is a pic of mine:



You are looking for an OEM 136 amp alternator(OEM PN:56027913) that was an option on the following vehicles(I am unsure of what motor combinations, etc. were required):

1997-1998 Dodge B.Series Van


1997-1998 Dodge Dakota


1998 Dodge Durango


1997-1998 Dodge Ram Pickup


1997-1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee


Here is what it looks like:



I got this one from a local jeep yard, Clement's Auto Salvage in the Branson area, for $30 out of a very clean 98 5.2L Limited that only had 60000 miles on it when it was wrecked.

Here are the two side-by-side:



I did quiet a bit of research and found that the basic mounting dimensions and connections were the same between the two. You can see the physical size difference of the two. As a matter of fact the 136A alternator was 1kg heavier. The only major difference was the direction of the plastic boot on the back of the alternator and the pulley is a 7 groove vs. my TJ's 6 groove. It was found that there was a 1 mm difference between the pulley diameters, but this is negligible and does not need to be addressed.

WHAT YOU NEED TO DO TO INSTALL

Ok, this mod is not much harder than installing a new alternator. I won't go into the details of changing the alternator, but rather, I will point out the details that must addressed during installation.

The first major difference between the two is the direction of the plastic boot. For ease of installation and clearance, this needs to be changed. By swapping the boots from the wrangler to the cherokee alternator, this change is easily accomplished. The boots are keyed(see red arrows) and install over the indicated stud below and locate on the small hole in the case(see green arrow):


The Wrangler boot is on the left and directs the exit of the boot away from the engine.

The other very minute detail to be attended to was the "spacer bushing" on the rear ear of the top alternator mount. The Cherokee's alternator's bushing (probably from rolling around on the floor) had been pushed too far inward and needed to be pressed back out. I accomplished this via a vise and large socket. Don't worry about pressing the bushing too far out because the mounting bolt will draw the bushing back tight again. The picture below shows the bushing after I pressed it out of the way:



Finally, we mentioned that the Cherokee's pulley was a 7 groove pulley. If you wanted the extra work, you could simply swap the two alternators' pulleys. However, you do not need to do this. If you bias the belt to the rearward most six grooves, the belt and alternator will align and run just fine. You can see the alternator installed in the pic below with the belt biased towards the back.



Well, after the install, I tested the bad boy out. Everything seems to work just fine and I can crank the old stereo and run every electronic in my jeep and hook up the Taurus fan to the battery and nothing even "blinks." Anyway, hopefully, someone will find this article helpful and save a few dollars in the process.

1978 Jeep CJ7 4.0HO w/ Headmann Headers, MSD ignition, front dana 30 with Warn axle shafts, Warn premium locking hubs, custom drive shafts front and rear, NP 435 Transmission (6.69 to 1 first), dana 300 transfercase, model 20 rear differential with superior axles, Ox lockers front and rear, 4.10 gears, Currie twin stick, Warn premium front locking hubs, BDS 4" spring under suspension, Rancho RS 5000 shocks, revolver front shackles, warn XD9000I winch, 35" General Grabber M/T, Rubicon Express hand throttle and sway bar disconnects, dual optima batteries(red and yellow top) w/incab switch, and a on board hot water shower.

#2 User is offline   John 

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Posted 12 April 2005 - 03:28 PM

Very impressive info Frank. You might want to post the URL where you got it as the pictures dont come though. Does anyone know what I have, I have forgotten. But its a 2001 4.0L Sahara with the HD system. I was thinking its about 130 amp or so?? John

#3 User is offline   jeepincj78 

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Posted 12 April 2005 - 07:10 PM

Just incase you guys wanted to see the entire thread, here is a link to it:

HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATOR

unfortunately it looks like you can't see the pictures.

Frank :boiling:
1978 Jeep CJ7 4.0HO w/ Headmann Headers, MSD ignition, front dana 30 with Warn axle shafts, Warn premium locking hubs, custom drive shafts front and rear, NP 435 Transmission (6.69 to 1 first), dana 300 transfercase, model 20 rear differential with superior axles, Ox lockers front and rear, 4.10 gears, Currie twin stick, Warn premium front locking hubs, BDS 4" spring under suspension, Rancho RS 5000 shocks, revolver front shackles, warn XD9000I winch, 35" General Grabber M/T, Rubicon Express hand throttle and sway bar disconnects, dual optima batteries(red and yellow top) w/incab switch, and a on board hot water shower.

#4 User is offline   Jim B 

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  Posted 13 April 2005 - 07:54 AM

John, on Apr 12 2005, 03:28 PM, said:

Does anyone know what I have, I have forgotten. But its a 2001 4.0L Sahara with the HD system. I was thinking its about 130 amp or so?? John

I'm not 100% sure on this but most TJs have a 117-120amp which is more than plenty. Unless you wish to run hydraulics and make it dance. :cool1:
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#5 User is offline   jeepincj78 

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Posted 13 April 2005 - 08:40 AM

I found out most 97' tj's have a 90amp alternator. This would be a nice upgrade for these owners.

Frank
1978 Jeep CJ7 4.0HO w/ Headmann Headers, MSD ignition, front dana 30 with Warn axle shafts, Warn premium locking hubs, custom drive shafts front and rear, NP 435 Transmission (6.69 to 1 first), dana 300 transfercase, model 20 rear differential with superior axles, Ox lockers front and rear, 4.10 gears, Currie twin stick, Warn premium front locking hubs, BDS 4" spring under suspension, Rancho RS 5000 shocks, revolver front shackles, warn XD9000I winch, 35" General Grabber M/T, Rubicon Express hand throttle and sway bar disconnects, dual optima batteries(red and yellow top) w/incab switch, and a on board hot water shower.

#6 User is offline   Jim B 

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  Posted 13 April 2005 - 12:39 PM

jeepincj78, on Apr 13 2005, 08:40 AM, said:

I found out most 97' tj's have a 90amp alternator.  This would be a nice upgrade for these owners.

Depending on the package you got from the factory with your vehicle.....

The rated SAE amps were either 81 or 117. The minimum test was 75 or 90.

Mine came with a 117 amp that has been sitting on the shelf for a few years as I have a Bosh 120amp that came with my welder that I swapped out.

I do have to say that this mod trick that you posted is :cool1:
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El Niņo
Experience is defined as something you get, after you need it.
Give the world the best you have. The best will come back to you...

There are no rules for good photographs, there are only good photographs.
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#7 User is offline   JeepDew 

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Posted 13 April 2005 - 03:06 PM

Jim B, on Apr 13 2005, 12:39 PM, said:

I do have to say that this mod trick that you posted is  :cool:

please don't give him any more incouragment, we don't need to swell his head any more because it may just...... :blowup:

and if that happens, then we won't have anyone to make fun at, at the meetings..... :gossip: :ya: :sneak: :cool1:
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#8 User is offline   jeepincj78 

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Posted 13 April 2005 - 03:42 PM

:cool1:
1978 Jeep CJ7 4.0HO w/ Headmann Headers, MSD ignition, front dana 30 with Warn axle shafts, Warn premium locking hubs, custom drive shafts front and rear, NP 435 Transmission (6.69 to 1 first), dana 300 transfercase, model 20 rear differential with superior axles, Ox lockers front and rear, 4.10 gears, Currie twin stick, Warn premium front locking hubs, BDS 4" spring under suspension, Rancho RS 5000 shocks, revolver front shackles, warn XD9000I winch, 35" General Grabber M/T, Rubicon Express hand throttle and sway bar disconnects, dual optima batteries(red and yellow top) w/incab switch, and a on board hot water shower.

#9 User is offline   exodus125 

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Posted 16 May 2005 - 09:16 AM

wat about something for a CJ?
If its stuck, force it; if it breaks, it needed replacing anyways.

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(Offenhauser 4bbl aluminum manifold, Pacesetter headers, Holley 4 bbl Carb.)
4" suspension lift
1" body lift
36x12.5 SS TSL Radials
8k Warn winch

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#10 User is offline   jeepincj78 

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Posted 21 May 2005 - 07:48 PM

Hey Exodus, this is the best i could come up with.

135 amp alternator

180 amp allternator

Frank
1978 Jeep CJ7 4.0HO w/ Headmann Headers, MSD ignition, front dana 30 with Warn axle shafts, Warn premium locking hubs, custom drive shafts front and rear, NP 435 Transmission (6.69 to 1 first), dana 300 transfercase, model 20 rear differential with superior axles, Ox lockers front and rear, 4.10 gears, Currie twin stick, Warn premium front locking hubs, BDS 4" spring under suspension, Rancho RS 5000 shocks, revolver front shackles, warn XD9000I winch, 35" General Grabber M/T, Rubicon Express hand throttle and sway bar disconnects, dual optima batteries(red and yellow top) w/incab switch, and a on board hot water shower.

#11 User is offline   jeepincj78 

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Posted 23 May 2005 - 08:25 AM

BUMP
1978 Jeep CJ7 4.0HO w/ Headmann Headers, MSD ignition, front dana 30 with Warn axle shafts, Warn premium locking hubs, custom drive shafts front and rear, NP 435 Transmission (6.69 to 1 first), dana 300 transfercase, model 20 rear differential with superior axles, Ox lockers front and rear, 4.10 gears, Currie twin stick, Warn premium front locking hubs, BDS 4" spring under suspension, Rancho RS 5000 shocks, revolver front shackles, warn XD9000I winch, 35" General Grabber M/T, Rubicon Express hand throttle and sway bar disconnects, dual optima batteries(red and yellow top) w/incab switch, and a on board hot water shower.

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