Greetings all,
I had a few projects pending but this takes the taco for the time being.
I'm having to revisit the rear main seal, a local shop took care of this for me about 5 years ago but it seems to be leaking again. I understand the procedure as stated in the Jeep (printed by AMC) Service Manual but given the tsunami of parts manufactured in China (and elsewhere) lacking in quality specifications.
Does anyone know of a present day quality maker of rear main seals?
Also, if there are any tips for removal/install of these seals beyond what the Service Manual dictates? Although, that manual seems very comprehensive there may be some nuances that folks have learned of since its printing.
Thanks and a lift of the lynch lid!
Gus
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AMC 360 Rear Main Seal Makers ...and any tips?
#1
Posted 07 September 2012 - 06:25 PM
I've noticed Swedes had something written on the bottom of their beer bottles, "Åpnas på andra sidan" (Opens on the other end).
#2
Posted 07 September 2012 - 06:36 PM
On my 258 here is what I did back in the '90's and no problem.
1. go buy a small can of "Super 300" I used black but now they might have something else but if I needed to do it again I would use black.
2. Drop pan
3. Disco coil wire/battery terminal
4. Loosen up main bolts after U drain the oil and remove pan
5. Remove rear cap/bearing
6. Use a small fiberglass rod or a punch w/some needle nose pliers pulling on the other end of the seal WHILE someone is rotating the CRANK. This will help you work out the top part of the seal.
7. Clean up everything and put some oil resistant RTV on the end of the cap where it mates w/the block.
8. COAT the seal (both sides) in "Super 300" (the stuff never dries-per MFG) and replace.
9. once all back together rotate the crank by hand to help seat the seal.
1. go buy a small can of "Super 300" I used black but now they might have something else but if I needed to do it again I would use black.
2. Drop pan
3. Disco coil wire/battery terminal
4. Loosen up main bolts after U drain the oil and remove pan
5. Remove rear cap/bearing
6. Use a small fiberglass rod or a punch w/some needle nose pliers pulling on the other end of the seal WHILE someone is rotating the CRANK. This will help you work out the top part of the seal.
7. Clean up everything and put some oil resistant RTV on the end of the cap where it mates w/the block.
8. COAT the seal (both sides) in "Super 300" (the stuff never dries-per MFG) and replace.
9. once all back together rotate the crank by hand to help seat the seal.
*MY CJ IS YOUR yJ's DADDY*
'48 Willys; '74CJ5; '80CJ7; '84 CJ8; '86 CJ7
*Who Needs A Stinking Manual When You Have A Fat Wallet For Tech Support!*
*What man is a man who does not make the world better*
Support the Central Florida Bible Camp for kids
'48 Willys; '74CJ5; '80CJ7; '84 CJ8; '86 CJ7
*Who Needs A Stinking Manual When You Have A Fat Wallet For Tech Support!*
*What man is a man who does not make the world better*
Support the Central Florida Bible Camp for kids
#3
Posted 08 September 2012 - 11:48 AM
Thanks a lot Rollbar! Kameraden! I'm likely going with Fel-Pro, provided they're still made in the USA !
I've noticed Swedes had something written on the bottom of their beer bottles, "Åpnas på andra sidan" (Opens on the other end).
#4
Posted 08 September 2012 - 12:07 PM
TurboGus, on 08 September 2012 - 11:48 AM, said:
I'm likely going with Fel-Pro, provided they're still made in the USA !
That is what I use.
*MY CJ IS YOUR yJ's DADDY*
'48 Willys; '74CJ5; '80CJ7; '84 CJ8; '86 CJ7
*Who Needs A Stinking Manual When You Have A Fat Wallet For Tech Support!*
*What man is a man who does not make the world better*
Support the Central Florida Bible Camp for kids
'48 Willys; '74CJ5; '80CJ7; '84 CJ8; '86 CJ7
*Who Needs A Stinking Manual When You Have A Fat Wallet For Tech Support!*
*What man is a man who does not make the world better*
Support the Central Florida Bible Camp for kids
#5
Posted 09 September 2012 - 08:34 PM
me too... I've been using that ever since.
best-selling brands of Rubicon Express and Pro Comp Tires
#6
Posted 10 September 2012 - 06:13 PM
TurboGus, on 08 September 2012 - 11:48 AM, said:
I'm likely going with Fel-Pro, provided they're still made in the USA !
SORRY!
In June 2010, Federal-Mogul expanded further into Asia by opening a state-of-the-art headquarters and technical center in Shanghai, China.[13] The Asia Pacific headquarters and technical center facility contains powertrain dynamometers and vehicle braking test cells among other processes. [13] The location allows for increased technical support to powertrain and vehicle customers as well as advanced technology development.
http://www.federalmo...n_SingleResults
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