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ignition control module 87 wrangle

#1 User is offline   Qman 

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Posted 26 December 2011 - 12:32 PM

any help on getting the glove box out and handle.i believe the control module is behind there

#2 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 26 December 2011 - 03:34 PM

The Computer is behind the Box. The control module is behind the rad over flow bottle. Drivers side fender.
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#3 User is offline   Qman 

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Posted 27 December 2011 - 11:33 AM

thanks for that. im getting to know the pattern here. i start it cold and runs for approx. 5 minutes and then stalls.restart it then drive on down the road and randomly stalls. wait a minute then restarts,sometimes when i let go of the crank position of the key switch to the on position it will start.

I have replaced the fuel filter,fuel pump,dropped the tank,carb rebuilt.
ELECTRICAL REPLACED: PLUGS,COIL,WIRES,ROTOR, DIST. CAP,GROUND CABLE CONNECTION.

WOULD THIS BE A VAPOR LOCK BEFORE I RIP THE DASH OUT TO CONTINUE THE ELECTRICAL? GGGRRRR!

#4 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 27 December 2011 - 03:36 PM

Not Vapor lock I would think.

Either it is the Pick up in the distributor or the module. But usually the module will cut out when it is/module gets hot.

They sell modules but they are cheap garbage most of the time.

If you change out the pick up (the part that plugs in the harness on the distributor) there is a tiny/small roll pin, don't drop it (the new one does not come w/one). I usually put my two fingers under it sandwiching the distributor shaft to keep it from falling. Usually it will follow the shaft up but keep an eye on it. The pic up GEAR/Inductor slide up and the roll pin HOLDS the GEAR/Inductor in place.

I would go w/the pick up first but then again it is hard to diagnose over the internet.

P.S. What carb do you have? Have you done the nutter-by-pass to eliminate the computer? If not the the yJ has a different color wire than described in the article.
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#5 User is offline   Big Red One 

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Posted 29 December 2011 - 05:15 PM

I would remove the Ignition Control Module, as mentioned under coolant recovery bottle-drivers side fender well, and have it checked at the auto parts store... there is a 'start' and a 'high speed' circuit inside, one or other can go bad... If that is not problem try the Nutter Bypass.
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#6 User is offline   Qman 

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Posted 11 January 2012 - 11:26 AM

View PostBig Red One, on 29 December 2011 - 05:15 PM, said:

I would remove the Ignition Control Module, as mentioned under coolant recovery bottle-drivers side fender well, and have it checked at the auto parts store... there is a 'start' and a 'high speed' circuit inside, one or other can go bad... If that is not problem try the Nutter Bypass.

this is great info. thanks so much. what is the nutter bypass. i have the single barrell carb stock one i believe its with throttle body

#7 User is offline   ManakinMan 

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Posted 11 January 2012 - 01:28 PM

i would buy the hei dist. from 4wheel parts for 100.00 dollars and get rid of the box and dist. and coil.....this thing works great i have installed a bunch of them with no troubles at all....

#8 User is offline   Qman 

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Posted 13 January 2012 - 11:29 AM

View PostManakinMan, on 11 January 2012 - 01:28 PM, said:

i would buy the hei dist. from 4wheel parts for 100.00 dollars and get rid of the box and dist. and coil.....this thing works great i have installed a bunch of them with no troubles at all....

i checked on the dist. and they do not make it for that year 6cly.junkyard i guess

#9 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 13 January 2012 - 01:44 PM

Don't get the HEI unless u change out the CAM gear also. Two different metals eat each other up so to speak.
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#10 User is offline   Qman 

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 09:33 PM

View PostQman, on 11 January 2012 - 11:26 AM, said:

this is great info. thanks so much. what is the nutter bypass. i have the single barrell carb stock one i believe its with throttle body

I would really appreciate the nutter bypass info. if possible. thanks

#11 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 09:35 PM

Look under tip/tricks.
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#12 User is offline   Qman 

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Posted 01 February 2012 - 11:25 PM

thanks so much for the help. the final result was the circuit in the distributor or cracked hold down clamp. I replaced the ignition control module as well. were headn out this weekend for sure.all is good.SALUTE!

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