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New 4.2 Type Engine what 4.2 engine do i need

#1 User is offline   BS13855 

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Posted 03 November 2011 - 09:45 PM

Ok so i have a 1990 jeep yj, well the po put in a used 4.2 motor.

the casting number says it was made 10-25-83 so im guessing it was sold in a 1984 jeep.

Well the motor has too much oil blow by, low compression, leaking head gasket and a crack in the exhaust manifold

TIME FOr NEW ENGINE

I do not want to put in a v8 i like the 4.2

So question is

What motor do i need to buy????

I see 4.2 motors all different years all over ebay for 1,000 to 1999 shipped depending on what year.

I have the ax15 tranny.

I want to make sure that when i get the new engine that my cooling system, intake manifold, exhaust and tranny all bolt in with no headaches.

this will be my first engine swap and I'm pretty sure me and a friend can do it in an afternoon.

one more question. i know the motor mounts from a 1984 4.2 to a 90 4.2 have to be different correct? why cause i have 1990 motor mounts and have like a 2 inch gap of open space from the mount bracket and the actuall rubber motor mount.


any advice will be great thank you


I'm also considering buying the master engine rebuild kit and taking it to a shop to have them do it. So if anyones knows a good jeep shop that would rebuild my motor in the broward county area let me know.


THANKS

#2 User is offline   Big Red One 

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Posted 04 November 2011 - 06:34 AM

PM me, getting ready to pull/sell my 89 4.2, has 4.0 head conversion.
89 YJ, AMC 360, 102" OF NOISE AND BOOGER WELDS
MAKING GOOD DECISIONS COMES FROM EXPERIENCE ...
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#3 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 06 November 2011 - 12:50 AM

You have to make up your mind which way you are going, then go from there.

A good rebuild would be about 1200 bucks but you can cut that way down by doing a lot of the work your self. Question is, do you want the 258 w/good low-end torque, or a good v8 w/lots of power but able also to have low-end torque (cam). AMC-360 is a good swap and the T-176 would hold up better than the ax15, the TF-999 3spd is another good tranny but it is auto. The 360 does have some good low-end torque and if you go dual exhaust keep the pipe @ 2.25, this will help as well.
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#4 User is offline   92SquareEye 

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Posted 06 November 2011 - 10:28 AM

From what I've heard, the 360 is a harder swap into the YJ, as it never came with that option. Gustavo had an 89 YJ. He swapped the 360 in and said he'd never do it again. From what he told me, everything has to be fabbed. There are several options for bolting in a SBC, but nothing for the 360. If you want to do the work yourself and want the most bang for the buck, I'd look for an EFI 4.0. Plenty of power as they are, but can be built up to 4.9 w/ well over 300/300 easily...if you want to consider that for down the road. Then everything bolts back up. I just built (had built :whistle: )a 93' 4.0 and was able to do the swap in my side yard. With several upgrades, I am very pleased w/ the power...significant increase over stock...which I broke enough stuff with. :beer:

-dave

#5 User is offline   Big Red One 

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Posted 06 November 2011 - 12:20 PM

Pipe-Down gentlemen the guy likes his 4.2...with a 4.0 head it has plenty of power :naughty: , like you said Dave TOO much HP breaks things, CrackerJack went up his favorite hill in Ocala many times with his 4.2, first attempt with a 4.0 major breakage... :tongue1:
89 YJ, AMC 360, 102" OF NOISE AND BOOGER WELDS
MAKING GOOD DECISIONS COMES FROM EXPERIENCE ...
EXPERIENCE COMES FROM MAKING BAD DECISIONS ...

#6 User is offline   BS13855 

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 08:50 PM

Well i talked to the trannydoctor today aka deno.

he told me to go with jasper motors....

well they have a great rep but with that rep comes a good price. they wanted to sell me the jeep 4.2 long block for

2460.99 and thats with my core and they stated if there is a crack or problem with my block they wont give me my core deposit back. hummmmmmmm seems kinda high i dont have that cash lying around....

i also started looking for a master rebuild kit but there are so many compaines out there selling them prices go from 399.99 to 790.00 ......... i did find out that most the kits on e-bay are enginetech and im kinda scared about those kits

there is another kit on ebay put together by a company called mabco or something like that i googeld them and they have a very bad rep



so further investigation i found this site jeepenginesales.com

they will sell me a long block shipped to my door for 1,469.99


can anyone tell me that the parts they use are good parts or not here is the list



Engines remanufactured by our remanufacturing line meet or exceed O.E.M. specifications.

- New Manley valves

- New Elgin valve springs and keepers

- New Badger pistons

- New Hastings molly rings

- New Dynagear timing gears and Durabond cam bearings

- New Dynagear timing gears and chain

- New Elgin lifters, push rods, rockers, balls and nuts

- New Dynagear oil pump

- New FelPro gaskets

- Cylinder heads are pressure checked

- Diamond honed valve guides

- Three angle cut valve seats

- All head surfaces are broached

- Blocks are bored with deck plates, cylinder walls are diamond honed

- Crankshafts are ground and polished for .002 clearance

- Camshafts are ground to O.E.M. specifications, hardened and polished

- Connecting rods are sized to .002 clearance

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Q: What is your Warranty policy?

A: See below a summary of our engine warranty.

Passenger car and light SUV longblocks are covered for 7 years or 70,000 miles. If failure of a long block should occur during the first twenty-four months and it is determined the failure is due to a defect in workmanship or parts installed by us, we will replace or repair the defective unit to the original buyer. During the balance of the warranty, we will replace the long block at one-half of the current retail price.

The Standard limit labor reimbursement covers labor at $40.00 per hour up to a maximum of $500.00. Premium warranty can be purchased at the time of sale.









I also got quoted from my friends at mustang specialties in pompano beach fl. they would do all the work to rebuild my motor for a labor charge of 1,000.... so if i could find a good master rebuild kit i might go that way...



any advice is great :)

#7 User is offline   92jeepyj 

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Posted 13 November 2011 - 04:09 PM

why not rebuild yours. there simple and alot cheaper with everything u can ind on the web and the help u could get on here u can do it your self.
yj 350sbc what eles i got to say. ever stuck in corbit call me ill come get u just ask for gas money. 56one 768 one8oneone

#8 User is offline   92SquareEye 

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Posted 14 November 2011 - 09:25 AM

Check with Titan Engines in Ocala. My built 4.0 was much less than the price you mentioned and it came with a 3 yr / 36k mile warranty. They have a very good reputation and build a very solid motor...

-dave

#9 User is offline   Stomper4X4 

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 02:29 PM

hey man I', in the same boat I have a 4.2 inline six same problem fumes killing me due to blowby I just had the upper seal fixed at roco 4x4 pricey and they screwed up on the oil pressure so it blew the gasket and they had to do it again but now i have blowby I keep hearing that it is easy to rebuild yourself is there any kind of video on this and also I hear its better to drop the engine to the ground rather than removing the whole front grill in order to lift it out?

#10 User is offline   jeepincj78 

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 05:58 PM

Im interested in what you ended up doing if anything?? I have already done an engine rebuild on a 4.0ho myself using parts from Titan in Ocala(which were engine tech parts) and I couldn't be happier with the way the engine runs, sounds and performs.. Now that being said, If I had to do it all over again, I would probably buy the long block because it was about the same price as me doing it myself with machine work involved...

If you look back in the archives about a 4.0ho engine rebuild, you should see all of my progress in step by step with pics..

And yes, to those who haven't seen me on here in quite a long time, IM STILL ALIVE. :)

Frank
1978 Jeep CJ7 4.0HO w/ Headmann Headers, MSD ignition, front dana 30 with Warn axle shafts, Warn premium locking hubs, custom drive shafts front and rear, NP 435 Transmission (6.69 to 1 first), dana 300 transfercase, model 20 rear differential with superior axles, Ox lockers front and rear, 4.10 gears, Currie twin stick, Warn premium front locking hubs, BDS 4" spring under suspension, Rancho RS 5000 shocks, revolver front shackles, warn XD9000I winch, 35" General Grabber M/T, Rubicon Express hand throttle and sway bar disconnects, dual optima batteries(red and yellow top) w/incab switch, and a on board hot water shower.

#11 User is offline   TranyDoctor 

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Posted 06 June 2013 - 06:45 AM

:shock: Frank wasup? he put a jasper in it Gutsy biult hers and it runs great. check out her build
GUTSY"S BUILD

#12 User is offline   jeepincj78 

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Posted 06 June 2013 - 07:04 PM

Cool! I especially like the CJ front end! Ive been lurking around for a while... One of these days I have to get my CJ7 on the road.. Needs some minor repairs.

Frank
1978 Jeep CJ7 4.0HO w/ Headmann Headers, MSD ignition, front dana 30 with Warn axle shafts, Warn premium locking hubs, custom drive shafts front and rear, NP 435 Transmission (6.69 to 1 first), dana 300 transfercase, model 20 rear differential with superior axles, Ox lockers front and rear, 4.10 gears, Currie twin stick, Warn premium front locking hubs, BDS 4" spring under suspension, Rancho RS 5000 shocks, revolver front shackles, warn XD9000I winch, 35" General Grabber M/T, Rubicon Express hand throttle and sway bar disconnects, dual optima batteries(red and yellow top) w/incab switch, and a on board hot water shower.

#13 User is offline   JeepinIan 

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Posted 07 June 2013 - 06:06 AM

Good to know you're still alive a kicking Frank!
Ian Stewart

If you don't fight for the trails, there won't be any trails to fight for.

What you get by achieving your goals is not as important as what you become by achieving your goals.
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"War is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest of things. The decayed and degraded state of moral and patriotic feeling that thinks that nothing is worth war is much worse. The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight, nothing which is more important than his own personal safety, is a miserable creature and has no chance of being free unless made and kept so by the exertions of better men than himself." ....

John Stuart Mill

#14 User is offline   jeepincj78 

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Posted 11 June 2013 - 04:51 PM

View PostJeepinIan, on 07 June 2013 - 06:06 AM, said:

Good to know you're still alive a kicking Frank!

Thanks Ian! Ive been busy doing the usual,,, work and fun.. I recently started riding my Harley again.. Anytime you want to go lemme know
1978 Jeep CJ7 4.0HO w/ Headmann Headers, MSD ignition, front dana 30 with Warn axle shafts, Warn premium locking hubs, custom drive shafts front and rear, NP 435 Transmission (6.69 to 1 first), dana 300 transfercase, model 20 rear differential with superior axles, Ox lockers front and rear, 4.10 gears, Currie twin stick, Warn premium front locking hubs, BDS 4" spring under suspension, Rancho RS 5000 shocks, revolver front shackles, warn XD9000I winch, 35" General Grabber M/T, Rubicon Express hand throttle and sway bar disconnects, dual optima batteries(red and yellow top) w/incab switch, and a on board hot water shower.

#15 User is offline   JeepinIan 

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 06:05 AM

10-4
Ian Stewart

If you don't fight for the trails, there won't be any trails to fight for.

What you get by achieving your goals is not as important as what you become by achieving your goals.
Zig Ziglar

"War is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest of things. The decayed and degraded state of moral and patriotic feeling that thinks that nothing is worth war is much worse. The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight, nothing which is more important than his own personal safety, is a miserable creature and has no chance of being free unless made and kept so by the exertions of better men than himself." ....

John Stuart Mill

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