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89 Jeep yj stalling at high rpms

#1 User is offline   JG805 

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 07:58 PM

well hope i can get some input recently i have been having problems with my yj stalling on me while driving but only happens at high rpms,i got online reasearched changed rotor,cap,plugs,ignition control module,fuel pump,fuel filter and today a carb rebuild kit and still the same issue get going down the block and stalls as if someone just shut the ignition off on me i also did the nutter bypass to eliminate the thought of the ecm being bad i need help been going at it for 4 days now getting ready to say screw this thing..any suggestions? thanks in advance sucks that my first experience with a jeep is turning out like this..

#2 User is offline   BlackOpsPete 

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 08:34 PM

When an engine just stop with no sputter it is electrical. High RPM related I say coil or grounding issues especially if you did nutter it. Check for loose damaged or corroded wires in the circuit
88 YJ "OLYMPIC" EDITION - 4.2, BA10, TrueTrac LSDs Front and Rear, Posilock, 4.10 gears, 4"RC Lift, 3"spacers, 2"shackles, GM HEI Dist, Motorcraft 2100 carb, SYE and Tom Woods CV drive shaft...

Once you go SQUARE you'll...take that dare!...like you don't care!...and make them stare!...Cause you got a pair!...of Squares :)

#3 User is offline   JG805 

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 08:47 PM

i have checked all the wiring i could get to will keep checking but i changed out the coil already i also ran an extra ground cable from the block to the frame

#4 User is offline   BlackOpsPete 

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 08:55 PM

Does it shut off completely or hesitate?
88 YJ "OLYMPIC" EDITION - 4.2, BA10, TrueTrac LSDs Front and Rear, Posilock, 4.10 gears, 4"RC Lift, 3"spacers, 2"shackles, GM HEI Dist, Motorcraft 2100 carb, SYE and Tom Woods CV drive shaft...

Once you go SQUARE you'll...take that dare!...like you don't care!...and make them stare!...Cause you got a pair!...of Squares :)

#5 User is offline   JG805 

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 09:05 PM

just shuts off like if someone turned the key off

#6 User is offline   BlackOpsPete 

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 09:23 PM

Run a positive lead from the battery to the coil temporarily and run it like when it stalls on you, if it fixes it look at the ignition switch, circuit

Please no offense You should put the shotgun away and start troubleshooting the problem.

The ignition control module you changed was it the one under the wiper wash bottle or the module in the distributor
88 YJ "OLYMPIC" EDITION - 4.2, BA10, TrueTrac LSDs Front and Rear, Posilock, 4.10 gears, 4"RC Lift, 3"spacers, 2"shackles, GM HEI Dist, Motorcraft 2100 carb, SYE and Tom Woods CV drive shaft...

Once you go SQUARE you'll...take that dare!...like you don't care!...and make them stare!...Cause you got a pair!...of Squares :)

#7 User is offline   JG805 

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 09:33 PM

View PostBlackOpsPete, on 20 September 2011 - 09:23 PM, said:

Run a positive lead from the battery to the coil temporarily and run it like when it stalls on you, if it fixes it look at the ignition switch, circuit

Please no offense You should put the shotgun away and start troubleshooting the problem.

The ignition control module you changed was it the one under the wiper wash bottle or the module in the distributor


the one under the washer bottle and no offense takin never worked on a jeep much less electrical

#8 User is offline   BlackOpsPete 

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 10:02 PM

So that new module is now bypassed with the nutter process. Yes
88 YJ "OLYMPIC" EDITION - 4.2, BA10, TrueTrac LSDs Front and Rear, Posilock, 4.10 gears, 4"RC Lift, 3"spacers, 2"shackles, GM HEI Dist, Motorcraft 2100 carb, SYE and Tom Woods CV drive shaft...

Once you go SQUARE you'll...take that dare!...like you don't care!...and make them stare!...Cause you got a pair!...of Squares :)

#9 User is offline   JG805 

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 10:16 PM

yes also just ran the positive wire to the coil and still the same

#10 User is offline   BlackOpsPete 

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 10:27 PM

If your discriptipn is accurate then your problem is most like between the coil and the rotor cap. Do you have the stock distributor?
88 YJ "OLYMPIC" EDITION - 4.2, BA10, TrueTrac LSDs Front and Rear, Posilock, 4.10 gears, 4"RC Lift, 3"spacers, 2"shackles, GM HEI Dist, Motorcraft 2100 carb, SYE and Tom Woods CV drive shaft...

Once you go SQUARE you'll...take that dare!...like you don't care!...and make them stare!...Cause you got a pair!...of Squares :)

#11 User is offline   BlackOpsPete 

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 10:41 PM

There are three components in the distributor ... switch plate, ignition module and Sensor that might be failing at speed. Coil is still a possibility, ground, wires, connection...
88 YJ "OLYMPIC" EDITION - 4.2, BA10, TrueTrac LSDs Front and Rear, Posilock, 4.10 gears, 4"RC Lift, 3"spacers, 2"shackles, GM HEI Dist, Motorcraft 2100 carb, SYE and Tom Woods CV drive shaft...

Once you go SQUARE you'll...take that dare!...like you don't care!...and make them stare!...Cause you got a pair!...of Squares :)

#12 User is offline   JG805 

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Posted 21 September 2011 - 05:14 AM

yes still has stock distributor

#13 User is offline   XrayDivr 

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Posted 21 September 2011 - 04:14 PM

View PostJG805, on 20 September 2011 - 08:47 PM, said:

i have checked all the wiring i could get to will keep checking but i changed out the coil already i also ran an extra ground cable from the block to the frame


yes, but have you checked the neg cable to the bat, cuz if it cant get back there, then the extra cable is useless.
try taking a jumper cable from the block to the negative terminal to bypass. i have had to drive 100 miles home like this before.
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#14 User is offline   JG805 

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Posted 21 September 2011 - 09:42 PM

well spent the day out couldnt find anything electrical decided to drop the tank and see what was going on in there Posted Image


this was my problem

thanks for everyones help i really appreciate it

#15 User is offline   BlackOpsPete 

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Posted 22 September 2011 - 08:29 AM

Cool! I would have thought that to create a "bog down" effect before killing the engine completely.

Glad it's back up and running, always a good feeling :thumbsup:
88 YJ "OLYMPIC" EDITION - 4.2, BA10, TrueTrac LSDs Front and Rear, Posilock, 4.10 gears, 4"RC Lift, 3"spacers, 2"shackles, GM HEI Dist, Motorcraft 2100 carb, SYE and Tom Woods CV drive shaft...

Once you go SQUARE you'll...take that dare!...like you don't care!...and make them stare!...Cause you got a pair!...of Squares :)

#16 User is offline   JG805 

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Posted 22 September 2011 - 03:23 PM

yea thought so to, thanks for all your help and time always good to have some outsider help when your running on a hot head lol

#17 User is offline   Valfam 

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Posted 01 October 2011 - 05:43 AM

Years back I had a CJ with a breaker pointís ignition system and it would shut off as you were going down the road when ever it wanted. It was driving me nuts it turned out to be the little wire going from the distributor to the coil. the wire would heat up and stretch it looked like the wire was broken inside and when the wire would get soft from the heat it would stretch.
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