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WJ Reliability Repeated CPS Failures Strand Vehicle, Disable Engine

#1 User is offline   drshame 

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 07:12 PM

Here's a tough question:

For the second time in about 2 years, My WJ I-6 was disabled by a bad CPS.

The first time, the engine died going 60 MPH on an expressway, forcing me to coast to a stop on a busy highway....swerving to the left lane to get it off the main lanes.

The second time killed it after parking in a neighborhood shopping center and it wouldn't start and required a tow.

Both failures came without any warning or symptoms of anything wrong.

Should my faith in this product be shaken knowing at about any time, it could leave me stranded whether I was in town, or out on a trail in the swamps?

Is this a defective design, multiple failure of a defective electrical component, or a potentially very dangerous safety defect?

Should I rightfully be concerned, or chalk it up to "It's a Jeep Thing" and know at anytime it can crap out and leave me stranded.

Is there anyway to prevent this from disabling the vehicle and figure some back-up way to keep it from happening again?

PS: It's my Primary Evacuation/Storm Vehicle and if it dies in an Evacuation or storm approach, it could leave me and the family in a very bad situation on the side of the road.

#2 User is offline   Big Red One 

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 08:50 AM

I would talk to a Dealer mechanic first and get his take on the problem. From what I understand you need to get up under the vehicle and have certain tools to reach it... otherwise it's one bolt and plug in the harness... this is a PITA on a roadside fix. I would normally say carry a spare to cover a quick fix... Find out if there is a BETTER quality sensor out there, sometimes the imports from halfway around the world aren't the best... :empathy:
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#3 User is offline   drshame 

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 09:20 AM

The dealership mechanic had to put it up on a lift...use a special long-grab tool...and ended up disconnecting the front driveshaft to get to it from under the Jeep.
I wonder if there's a way to relocate it?
Also...the replacement have all been JEEP OEM parts from the dealership.
This really bothers me knowing at any time...the engine can DIE while it's running or refuse to start up and strand me.

#4 User is offline   XrayDivr 

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 07:21 AM

sorry for your trouble, but first you cant relocate it, cuz there is a magnet on the crankshaft, that the sensor picks up on and sets the timming of the electronic ignition., but if the vehicle is young enough 1 more bad sensor and you could have a good case for a lemon law argument. the next time you take it in for mantience i would mention this and suggest they do what ever it takes. each time the mechanic changes these he should be putting in fresh dielectric grease in the wireing harness. it could be that the sensor itself isnt going bad but moisture geting in the harness and loosing continuity.
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#5 User is offline   Big Red One 

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 05:47 PM

I believe the Lemon Law covers vehicles 2 years old or newer... The male end of the connector should have a rubber seal on it to make it water tight... if not find a way to seal it, dielectric grease is a good start.
89 YJ, AMC 360, 102" OF NOISE AND BOOGER WELDS
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#6 User is offline   drshame 

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 06:28 PM

"The male end of the connector should have a rubber seal on it '

CPS Condom????

I will ask if they use a ribber boot or dialectric grease to keep it from suffering water damage.

Not that I ever go thru any high water or anything:

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#7 User is offline   Valfam 

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 06:55 PM

I replaced mine with one from advanced and I have not had a problem again. When yours fails is it damaged or did it just stop working? You know you are not supposed to remove the little piece of paper on the bottom of the sensor.
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#8 User is offline   drshame 

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 09:30 PM

Dealership mechanic removed the old one and installed the new one.
I have no idea if they removed any paper or used any dielectric grease on any connections. Maybe that's the problem.
I also don't know if it was damaged.
It failed, and made it appear that the PCM was dead too. They installed a new PCM and it was inaccesible to their ODB reader. When they finally replaced the CPS, they put the old PCM back in and it worked fine.
I have a call into Jeep Corporate. I'll see what they say or do. I dont; mind paying for maintenance parts. But when they are capable of disabling the engine without warning...anywhere/anytime..I get a little troubled it can leave me stranded in a very bad place at the worst possible time.

#9 User is offline   drshame 

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 09:42 PM

On top of everything else: I have an leaking axle/bad seal. Who in South Dade can fix it and should I replace the other side too...expecting it could go bad..or wait until it actually starts leaking before pulling it and fixing it?

#10 User is offline   Big Red One 

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 01:43 PM

Where exactly is it leaking, if it's leaking from old age replace the other one also, sometimes lots of dirt/water will kill them quick or grass/weeds spun around a shaft will kill them even quicker...
89 YJ, AMC 360, 102" OF NOISE AND BOOGER WELDS
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#11 User is offline   XrayDivr 

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 05:08 PM

yes you should always ride with a rubber seal and grease on your male ends.



axle seals

i would say change both at the same time cuz you have to pull the whole diff appart anyway to get to them. front axle the seals are in the diff. rear axle they are on the shaft at the hub, unless you have a d-44,you have to take the center pin out to remove the c-clip to pull the shaft.
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#12 User is offline   drshame 

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Posted 19 September 2011 - 08:23 PM

Add:
Rear Axle Seals replaced.
ABS Light next issue.
Codes show Pump/Controller Failure.
ABS Electronics Replaced.....OUCH...Big Bucks.
Next up: New Front driveshaft to fix 4X4 Vibes following what I thought was a minor 2...2-1/2 " lift....now hearing vibes are common on WJ's even with minor 2" lifts.
Thinking more and more the WJ is NOT built for easy lifting or much off-roading/mudding.
At least in 2WD it still runs smooth.

:(

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