[Trailblazer]

I was asked to post the build process here and rather than start from scratch I decided to copy and paste (with minor editing). Hopefully, this will show anyone interest in how to (or more likely – how not to) run full with axle, a full Chevy driveline swap, stretch the front a rear, body work, electrical, blah, blah, blah.

• February 9th, 2009

Well as some of you already know, I picked up a '78 CJ7 with a spare fiberglass tub for $800. The plan was to get the Jeep working and keep my k10 to have two rigs to play with. I finally decided not to go that route because of the cost of building and maintaining two rigs.

THE PLAN:

1 - Strip the Jeep of anything of value that is not needed. This includes the drivetrain, fenders, tires, springs.

2 - Clean, prep and paint frame. This includes buying and installing the BTF Full Width Axle kit and the rear stretch kit.

3 - Swap axles and tires from the '78 Chevy K10.

4 - Swap the motor/transmission/transfercase from the Chevy and shorten the driveshafts to fit.

5 - Install the fiberglass tub along with BTF tube fenders and prep for paint. This includes "comp cut" rear fenders since the rear tires will be further back.

6 - Figure out how I’m going make the Chevy crossover steering work on the Jeep.

7 - Buy and install a new electrical harness.

8 - Wheel the rig until I get the bug to do more to it, like a family roll cage, sliders, fuel injection, etc.

This will be a very long and slow build to low funds. Most of the money being used is going to be raised by selling parts and saving slowly (two kids to feed).

This is the day I got the Jeep...













Here you can see the Jeep and the K10 together...



This weekend I started by pulling the tranny and t-case for a buyer. This took all day and two crowbars due to a stuck shaft. It eventually came out without damage. I've got too say, I forgot how hard it is to work under a short rig. Hopefully the construction will be done soon so that I can get the Jeep into the side yard to start really stripping her down.





AWW It's so tiny



Next to go will probably be the motor and tires/rims.

BTW, if you want to ALL of the pics, here is the link to the complete album…

http://s5.photobucke...51/CJ7%20Build/

Really looking forward to this. The K10 was fun and all, but I missed having a 4 seater and eventually the kids will be old enough to ride. Since this will probably be the last 4x4 I build it's got to be something that the family can ride in and that can be towed more easily. Plus, I’m keeping the best parts of it.




February 17th, 2009

Finally got around to doing something with the Jeep again. Wasn't much though cuz I had to make room on the side of the house for it and it was a real mess. In the end I was only able to pull the passenger fender and swap the tires with the mini loaners. I just have to finish organizing the tool shed and get rid of a few things and I’ll be ready to start stripping her down.











March 1st, 2009

I did some more work on the CJ this Saturday. Pulled the seats out and cleaned out the mess a bit. Still not sure if I should try to fix this tub, use the fiberglass tub that I have, or sell both and find a CJ or YJ tub with less rust.






Next I fought with some rusty body mount bolts and I was finally able to take the tub off of the frame. I was alone so I had to get a little creative. I lifted the Jeep on stands, and then I supported the rear of the tub with an engine lift and the front with a 2x4 and bricks. Then all I had to do was lower the tires back down and roll the Jeep out.














The frame is in better shape than I thought. Just surface rust throughout. The only major rust is the rear crossmember which will be replaced. Also looks like the previous owner installed a plastic gas tank.






Next on the list is to pull the axles for a buyer this week and pull the motor and springs (still no buyer). Then it'll be down to just the frame. I'll need to decide what I’m going to paint the frame with because I want to have it cleaned and primed when I order the front and rear full width/stretch/bumper kits from BTF. That way I can have the kit welded on then paint the frame and bumper with some sort of glossy paint for easy cleanup. The frame will be either black or gray.
The only downside to the glass tub that I keep hearing is the you have to run extra grounds (not too big a deal) and they eventually crack from the stress in trail rigs. Don't know if that’s true but I planned to use maybe a 4x4 steel plate at each mounting point (above and below the tub) to help spread the load. Not sure if that’s over kill though.

Also worried about the rear fenders being too week after I cut them for the "comp-cut look.







March 3rd, 2009

Been home for the last 2 days with a cold that I got from both babies so I've been sitting around wiping boogers wishing I was working on the jeep

After looking at the tubs some more I'll definitely be going with the glass tub. Just going to research on the web for the week spots and reinforce them. I figure the mounts would be the worst spots. I might just get 4"x4" steel plates at each mounting point to act as giant washers.

I have buyers for the axles and motor but I can't get to that until Sunday. I'll also start stripping the misc. brackets on the frame and motor mounts, tank, etc.

Hopefully, I can have it all stripped down and ready for blasting soon. I'll also be ordering everything needed to get the axles mounted this week.



March 22nd, 2009

Well, I stripped down the frame last weekend. Got rid of the fuel and brake lines, dropped the tank and removed anything bolted down. I started to remove the rear shackle mounts for the front springs but I couldn't find any cutting wheels. I was able to drill out the top of two rivets but ran out of time.






I found that not only did a previous owner try to fix the frame, they also did a bad job of it. Either they did this with the body on and had no room to work with or they just suck at welding. Now I’ll have to grind all the ghetto welds down and cut out the plates on the outside of the frame. The MORE frame plates get welded to the outside and run from the front bumper to past the first body mount. Then using one of the cut outer plates, I want to trim it down a bit and have it welded to the inside of the frame.









I had to stop early so I grinded and wire brushed the area then topped I of with some primer. This is going to take a lot of prep work before it's ready for welding.







March 22nd, 2009

Today I had to put the frame aside to concentrate on stripping parts off of the tub. I was able to get everything I needed off except for the seat belts and two steel plates for the show bar.

The build is going slow but it's not too bad considering this is only the fifth day that I work on it.

I think the window frame might be a little too far gone...Just going to keep it for the glass and wiper motor.





















March 23rd, 2009

This thing is moving along nicely. It just sucks only getting one 6-8 hour day a week to work on it. I would have so much more done by now back in my pre-father days.

This weekend I’ll pull the last pieces that I need off of the red tub and it'll be ready to go. The red tub really isn't that bad for someone that has the skills and sheet metal. The worst parts are the front floor board which can be bought and welded. There's also a rust hole by the passenger door hinges that needs patch work.

This weekend I also plan to have the frame ready. I was planning to sandblast the thing, but by the time I’m done prepping the areas that need reinforcing, I might as well finish it off with the wire wheel and grinder. Cutting the old welds will take most of the time.

I also have to start ordering all of the frame and axle swap parts this week.

I'm keeping the glass and motor cuz the windshield frame is shot. Probably just buy it new when the time comes and swap the glass over.


March 28th, 2009

Only spent a few hours on the Jeep today. I cut of one of the steel plates completely and I cut enough on another to bend it back. I also worked on the two booger welds on the inside of the frame. Got tired of grinding and cutting, so I stopped for today.









before



after





So the goal for now, since I can't find a good CJ7 frame, is to finish cutting out all of the plates that the previous owner welded on. Then grind them all smooth and clean the frame.

Once the old welds and front spring hangers are cut out and ground smooth, the plan is to grind a groove following each crack in the frame which will be filled in with the welder. Then I want to grind that down smooth enough to weld on the MORE frame plates that go on the outside and the home made plates that will go on the inside. It's a lot of work but a onetime deal.

Once all that's done, I’ll have to deal with the rear of the frame. The crossmember is trash so I want to replace it with some stronger steel. You can see in the pics that a small section needs to be replaced with some box tube.







After all that it's getting POR15 and Chassis Coat and I’ll be done with this frame crap once the BTF stuff gets welded on.

This frame sucks, but I don't know if I want to start stripping another jeep again just for the frame. The whole thing with this one was that the parts I sold almost cover what I paid for it and I would still have a frame, glass tub, hood, grill and all of the dash stuff and interior. Now to start again would really suck. If I could just buy a rust free frame that’s ready for paint then it would save me the money and time that I’ll spend on this frame.

[Trailblazer]

• April 17th, 2009

Just ordered the 3/16 thick frame plates for the front and rear. Didn't go with the MORE kit. Instead I found a guy on the CJ-8.com forum that basically copied the MORE kit but extended it for the CJ8. I would just have to cut 12" out the rear which I'll use on the inside of the frame. Plus both of his kits were $130 cheaper the MORE kit.



• April 23rd, 2009

Got the new frame plates today! 3/16 is thicker than I thought.






• May 3rd, 2009

I got to work on the new-to-me CJ frame that Dan dropped off. It actually has some bad rust spots but no previous patches or cracks like my other frame. It looks like I'll have to use both frames to make one good one. I was able to strip off all of the old lines and brackets. I was also able to cut off everything that won't be needed, but my cheap northern grinder crapped out before I could cut the welds on the rear crossmember. I also gave most of the frame a quick cleaning with the power sander and a wire brush. There was a **** load of rust scale.



Cuz the front crossmember and body mounts are shot, I'll be cutting and reusing the ones on the first frame which are in perfect shape. The small rust holes will be cut and patched using the other frame.










Here you can somewhat see how the frame looks after a quick cleaning.



You can see the amount of crap that I took off and rust scale. I hadn't even finished the rear half yet in these pics.






I could have built a frame from scratch by now, but so far I have less than $500 total invested in this build so far. The biggest cost has been tools. Besides I'm getting a lot of experience with cutting, grinding and eventually welding.

And seeing as how this is my only project, it shouldn't be too bad.

• October 12th, 2009

Figured I'd resurrect this old build post...

As most of you know I gave up on the CJ frame cuz it was too far gone and I didn't feel lake patching a future problem. I ended up getting Pete's YJ frame which needs almost no work and had no rust.

Started off by cutting whatever brackets and mounts won't be needed. I also ground down the outer tube peace of the crossmember since I'll be welding 1/4" plate over it.

BEFORE:


AFTER:




More cutting and grinding...







I eventually cut off the 4cyl motor mounts and some other crap that don't need. I just need to cut out the rear crossmember which will be replaced with 4 1/2" angle.


Today, I finally picked up some steel at C&R Metals. I was trying to get it a different route but that was taking way too long. I also picked up a full 125ci tank of Argon/CO2 mix.

Now I just need to get the power for the welder resolved and I'll be ready to go.

Rear crossmember with bumper/rear stretch...



Tranny/Tcase crossmember (copied form Dirty's Jeep)...





New stubby bumper which will serve as a mounting point for the full-width axle swap...(frame is upside down in the pics)










At this rate, the jeep should be ready for the twins' 16th b-day. Once I have the frame sitting on springs everything should start moving quicker.




• November 30th, 2009

I've been playing around with the welder on scraps and it's definitely something that requires a lot of practice, patience and a comfortable position. Most of my screw-ups happen when I need to move during a weld.

1st try with flux...






2nd try with flux...




3rd try with flux (and not enough heat)...





There were more after that but no pics. Then I ran out of flux and started using solid mig and welds that actually hold together. I like it much better but I still need to practice. I'm just going to tac everything into place while I get some more time in with the welder.

So after stripping down the rest of the frame I started on the new rear crossmember that will be the mounting point for the rear bumper/stretch kit.

I ordered a set of weld-thru 3/4" clevis tabs for the front and rear and a flush-mount hitch tube from Comp4x4.










because this is a flush mount hitch, the pin is hidden between the gas tank & crossmember. I probably won't need it with the d-ring tabs but I'm going through all this work, so I might as well add the hitch.


BTW cutting through 1/4" 2x4 with those same hand tools REALLY, REALLY SUCKS. I'll definitely pay the damn $50 next time to have it cut.

The tabs still aren't welded in, but you get the idea. The back of the hitch will slip though the slot in the crossmember.






Here are my terrible welds that I'll be grinding down and redoing later. You can see where the settings were off on the welder and where I had to re-adjust my hand cause of poor planning...





I also tac'd the front crossmember together with the spring hanger drops. The sides will be plated before it's finally welded to the frame. Not too happy about using drops in the front but this will help to keep the leaf spring eyes as level as possible since I'm doing the shackle reversal and stretching the front a few inches.








I'm hoping to tac the rear bumper and shackle hangers this weekend (If I get some time). I already bought a bunch of grade 8 bolts, washers and nuts so I'll be able to bolt in the xj springs.

The next mission is that I need to enlarge a bunch of 1/2" shackle holes to 9/16". And we're talking about 3/8" thick shackle plates. I might just take them to a machine shop. Either that or buy a used drill press. Plus the 9/16" bits are like $12-$15 each.

[Trailblazer]

• December 1st, 2009

I guess my wife felt pitty on me since I never have time to work on the jeep and she gave me a full day without hassles and missions. So of course I took advantage of it. I got the cross-member and bumper welded on and I welded on the clevis tabs and shackle hangers for the stretch.

My welds were really bad at first so I'll have to clean up some and re weld but it got better over time. For now the bumper is just stitch welded but I'll finish fully welding it on next month when I clean up the bad welds.

I also found that I'm going to have to move the front spring hanger for the rear further back. So this will be more like a 10" rear stretch when it's done.

This will get ground down and re-welded first chance I get...



This is where I stopped cuz I couldn't see anything with the helmet on...






• February 16th, 2010

Got the front crossmember and spring hangers welded in yesterday and tack'd in the shackle hangers. After checking out the install instructions for the BTF kit, I'm going to move the hangers 2inches back to get better shackle angles. I also don't like having the outer edge of the shackle hanger running slightly off the edge of the frame. So I'll be moving the hanger back 2 inches and in 1/4" then using a set of 1/4" offset shackles that I had previously bought. That'll leave my springs lined up while giving me more area to weld the hanger in.





The stock YJ springs lay flat with the weight on them. I used a ratchet strap to compress it and it still had more to go so the shackle would be almost at the frame with the full weight on it in the current position.

I also cut out the rear spring hangers which I had originally planned to reuse 2-3 inches back for better shackle angles. After looking at it though, I'll be using the DIY4X hanger so that I can fine tune the angle later and not worry if I every change the springs out.



Here's the DIY4X hanger. Going to order it and the NP208 clocking ring later today.




I'm planning to take March 4th and 5th off to work on the Jeep since my brother will be on leave. The plan is to have the springs mounted before then so that those two days will be spent...

1. Move the frame and roll bar to my mom's (5 min away)
2. Mount the axles and tires with u-bolts only
3. Install the tub and find location for motor mounts
4. Build tranny crossmember
5. ....more to come as I think of it...




• February 24th, 2010

More parts!! I hope to have the new hangers welded and the shackle hangers relocated on Sunday. It'll be interesting with only one fully functional hand though.





• March 8th, 2010

Alright so other than getting sick in the process, being sore for the last two days (old age) and not getting as much done as I planned, it all turned out pretty good.

So Thursday my brother, Leo (chapo037), really saved the day cuz it never crossed my mind that I would need my trigger finger (currently in a sling) to use the welder. And since we were welding the spring hangers, I figured it would be a bad time to learn to weld with my left hand. Plus I trust his worst welds over my best welds on a good day.

We got the front shackle hangers and rear spring hangers welded in then he went around the frame fixing my bad welds (lots of them). We cut out and ground down some more old brackets and test fitted the springs. Later that night my neighbor came by and we moved the frame, roll bar and springs over to my mom's on the back of his friend's Titan. We finally stopped after the frame was sitting on the axles.

Friday, I was on my own so I was only able to cut out the rear perches and bolt in the axles. Over the past year I must have lost a spring plate so I used a ratchet strap for now. I also removed the add-a-leafs from the rear springs and started to install the steering box. I'll have to notch out the front crossmember some more though to fit the box.

Saturday we were only able to drop the tub on top of the frame for a test fit.

Old photo but it shows how I finally got the roll bar home from David's place...





And here's how we moved it all...





See a pattern here?


Here's how it sits so far ...









The spring still need to settle but here are my approach and departure angles so far...





Front shackle hangers with offset shackles...





The shackle angle will improve once all of the weight is added.



Rear spring hanger and shackle hanger...





The angle will improve with added weight plus I'm going to run boomerangs for more bumper clearance at full droop.



Removed the add-a-leafs and added the new anti-wrap perches. I'll probably just use the center hole cuz it's stretched more than enough right now. I just need to get beefier u-bolts for the rear and a driver side spring plate.










Still have to notch out the new crossmember for the steering box to fit and drill out a hole in the patch that we did for the grill mounting bolt.



Here is how she sits now with the tub on without the body mount bushings or bolts. I'll eventually comp-cut the rear and the front and rear springs should flatten out. I'll probably get new springs in the end but the plan is to keep her short and wide. This won't be a mud only rig.

















• April 17th, 2010

I wasted a weekend trying to get the glass body to fit right. Cheap a### tub is impossible to line up right. I know how to fix it now, but I'll worry about the body later. I also had the cut off the old grill mount and weld some flat plate. You are apparently supposed to run at least a 1inch body lift when using a CJ grill on a YJ. Since the plan is to keep the jeep low and wide, I'll have to redo the grill support again.

I forgot to take pics of the grill and hood installed after I welded the plate, but here are a few before.














Now today, I was able to place the motor, trans and tcase where I want it. I'll just have to double check all of my measurements before I weld it in tomorrow. You can see that once I clock the tcase up, the lowest point will be the tranny bushing. I already have plans for that. Hopefully, I'll have everything tac'd in tomorrow. Then I'll remove the tub and fully weld what's left and start on the plumbing.

[Trailblazer]

Now the last update...

This is how the sits right now. The motor will probably be moved slightly but this is basically the position. I want to to raise the tcase a little more, but i need to clock it first. I don't think i can clock it to the last bolt holes which would be flat, but that's fine cuz it will still be higher than the mount bolts.

I had to use the AA engine mounts upside down the other way there was hardly any welding surface. The instructions suck and after hours of searching i only found two pics of the mounts installed... both mounted differently. So i guess, unless someone here knows, i'll be welding them this way.

[bigugly78CJ5]

looks good man......amazing the amount of crap you have stuck in that camry.............you dont by chance have that old 258 layin around any more do ya???

[Trailblazer]

bigugly78CJ5, on Apr 20 2010, 09:45 PM, said:

looks good man......amazing the amount of crap you have stuck in that camry.............you dont by chance have that old 258 layin around any more do ya???

Yeah, that poor camry. I just took all of my tools out of the trunk yesterday cuz it was killing my gas mileage and i was worried about blowing out the rear shocks. This weekend i'll be using the camry to move bandsaw, 14" cuttoff, table grinder and possibly welder/cart/tank to my "Workshop" aka mom's house. So the cars going to take a little more punishment. If all goes well, I plan to turn in my wifes leased camry in this Nov to get a pickup or SUV. Then she'll take my camry until the lease runs out.

Sorry, I sold the engine a while back.

BTW i tried to find that video of the jeep rolling over at the hump with no luck. I'll ask around to see if anyone has it on their PC.

[Trailblazer]

MORE UPDATES

I decided to pony up the money and I got some 5/8" thick spring plates and shock tabs for all four corners from Ruff Stuff. I also got MORE boomerangs for the rear.







A few minutes ago i got my new Griffin universal radiator delivered... Its purty!




I went with the biggest radiator possible so i'll have to confirm that it fits in the CJ grill on Saturday, then i'll have to get the mounting tabs welded on.





So i got some work done on the jeep over the last few weeks and figured i'd update this thread. Got the motor mounts welded in and built a t-case crossmember out of 1/4" 2x2. I still have to add gussets and clean up the welds. At the same time we clocked the t-case for the flat belly.

Today i got the tube fenders installed. Unfortunatly, since the White Rhino DIY kit comes with no instructions and I didn't ask, i'll have to trim 1.5inches from the rear of the fenders and reweld some new mounting plates. Apparantly the DIY kit is universal and the flat fender tube is made longer to fit the longer YJ hoods. Not the end of the world but another delay.

I know i've said it before but... I HATE THIS F'n FIBERGLASS TUB!! Getting anything to align right is impossible. I'll be on the lookout for a YJ tub. Until then this will have to do.

Engine installed...




Crossmember...











The flat belly. The exhaust will all be routed through the driver's side...













It finally looks like a jeep. I still have to clean up the welds on the side panel. I want those ground smooth and the top panel will/is be welded from the bottom. You can see how the fenders are too long. Cutting the 1 to 1.5 inches from the rear will also open up the fenders some more.

[ljrubitm]

heres a YJ tub, kinda far though . For $200

http://www.floridaje...pic.php?t=64730

[Trailblazer]

Okay so free time has been very limited while i get used to working this 2nd job. I now work from 3:30am to 7am on Saturday's and Sunday helping to close out a nightclub so i've been learning to function with short naps.

I did get to do a little work Saturday though. I finished drilling out the holes for the hood hinges and i mounted the windshield frame with some temporary bolts. I also started to mount the doors but i need to order the bottom hinges and the latch pieces for the tub. I started to comp-cut the rear. Once i find the right lines, i'll copy it over to the passenger side. Also decided to throw on some Chevy Orange engine paint on the corner just to see what it would look like. A little too orange. I'll have to see if they have something closer to the old truck's paint.

i just have a few more things to pre-drill and test fit before the whole body comes off. Once its off i'll have to either pay someone to reinforce the fiberglass or learn to do it myself.

[CustomSwitchControl]

Nice work!! I remember those days, I need a new project

[Trailblazer]

Thanks! I'll try to update this thread during the week when i get a few minutes.

[Krocker]

this is a good work... I'll visit this thread often to learn more in building a good jeep.

[Trailblazer]

I actually haven't done too much since the last update. I did some test fitting a while back with the top, doors, windshield frame, etc. I ended up giving up on this crappy glass tub so im gonna buy a used steel tub afterall. More money out of pocket but it's save me headaches and time in the end since everything will bolt up.






Two weeks ago i stripped it all back down to concentrate on getting the motor running, axle perches welded, driveshafts, brake and fuel lines, etc. I also mounted the starter & plug wires, changed the tranny and engine oil and installed the headers (no pics). I'm hoping to start up the engine this weekend and maybe send the rear driveshaft out for shortening next week. I'll do the front shaft when the jeep is finally road worthy. I also want to have the exhaust done before the body goes on.

I also have to go up to Orlando to pick up the tub one of these days.



The driveshaft will be pretty short cause of the slip in the np208 but i've seen much worse before. One day after its all done i'll save up for a d300 and the th350 adapter kit.

[Trailblazer]

So an update is in order...

I finally picked up the YJ tub from St Cloud. It would have fit in the bed upright but i didn't think about the fenders and steps. Also picked up the hood, grill and wiper assemply (minus the pump).



Got the tub set in place this weekend. I had to cut the firewall to clear the distributor cap and wires and, for now, i had to drop the tcase one level on the clocking ring cuz i didn't want to cut the floor.



The fenders fit okay. I little shot but it'll work.



I'll make a cover for the hole in the firewall later on.



There's like a 1/2" between the airbox and hood.



The steering shafts clears the headers. Just have to get the YJ pedal assembly to mount the steering column. I'll have to see if i can rig up the old CJ pedals this weekend.



I'll have tons of room for the radiator, pulley fan and electric fan.



At least the dash will stay CJ.



I also ordered the pre-bent stainless brake lines, 20ft of stainless tube to make the fuel and transmission lines and the complete body bolt kit from Totally Stainless. Notice a theme here. I don't like rust.

Also, cuz it was cyber Monday, 4wd sent is sending mr a $50 gift card plus shipping was free!

[StuckZilla]

Nice work! That's a serious project and a labor of love. Looking forward to progress as it happens.

[92SquareEye]

awesome work, alex. can't wait to see it finished and off road!!

-dave

[Trailblazer]

StuckZilla, on Nov 30 2010, 11:07 PM, said:

Nice work! That's a serious project and a labor of love. Looking forward to progress as it happens.

Thanks. This thing keeps changing on me. First all CJ, then CJ/Chevy, then CJ/YJ/Chevy, now (finally i hope) YJ/Chevy.

LrdJeffson, on Dec 1 2010, 07:25 AM, said:

awesome work, alex. can't wait to see it finished and off road!!

-dave

Thanks. Me too! Actually, nobody wants that more than my wife. 2 1/2 years ago, when my twins were just born, i told my wife..."yeah baby, this will be a quick and cheap project. 6 montha tops since i have almost everything i need."

[92SquareEye]

i have no idea what you're talking about...



c'mon sweetie...3 months TOPS!!

-dave

[SodMan]

Sweet man. i just spent 21/2 years on a Scrambler build, and I didn't do near the work you had to do. Very nice. You have made good time.

[Trailblazer]

Got the latest batch of parts including the stainless bolt kit.

Installed the battery tray, body bolts and poly bushings, soft top and windshield frame and roll bar. I would have had the steering column and dash installed but i need to find a YJ pedal set and possible a new steering shaft. Hopefully i get the a windshield guy down to install the new glass and seals this week.

[Trailblazer]

This jeep build has been moving along pretty quickly lately but, because i've pieced it together from parts, i have a few questions.

1. The frame had no brake or fuel lines attached so i bought the pre-bent stainless tubing kit from 4wd. Everything pretty much falls into place and i googled a few pics to figure out the routing. Now, looking at the two pics below, am i routing the brake line correctly?








2. On the battery tray, what are these brakets for?



3. I know the oval shaped hole to the top left is for the clutch pedal which i removed. I believe the square hole is for the fuse box (i have a painless harness). Now what are the 3 bottom holes for?



4. The plan is to either comp-cut the rear or REALLY stretch the rear fender opening. How would i get these panels out of each side? They seem to be welded in but i'm hoping there's some sort of tick to it.



5. And just cuz i'm a picture whore, here is how the jeep sits today...

[Trailblazer]

Did some more work to the Jeep.

Bolted up the tube fenders that I had originally built for the CJ front clip. They are a little short cuz of the longer YJ hood but it should be fine when it’s done…



You can see that the front and rear fenders won’t be protecting anyone until I get a chance to buy the 3inch flare kits. It'll be worse once i comp cut the rears...







Tracked down a YJ tailgate (the old hinge bolts were a pain in the arse to take out!)…



Dropped in the old 12k winch, new fairlead (the cleanest part of the jeep) and the light bezels. I still have to wire it up and install the new cable…



Installed the new-to-me Corbeau RS reclining suspension seats with the Mastercraft harenesses. I’ll just have to decide if I run a crossbar behind the seats or bolt them the floor. You can also see the B&M shifter on the floor. You can also see that i finally got the steering column installed once i found the correct YJ pedal assembly...

[TranyDoctor]

build looking great nice seats

[Trailblazer]

Thanks. I'll probably recover the seats when i'm done and i still need to see if i can order the just two lap belts that were cut. I can tell you though that my wife really liked the added safety of the harness. I'm trading my rollbar for a "family style" rollbar which I'll be adding tubing to like the front bars to the floor instead of the windhield and spreader bars throughout. Still not sure about the mounting options for the shoulder harness though. i plan to run a rear seat so i'm hesitant to run a full crossbar.

[Trailblazer]

Picked up some Genright Comp-Cut corners. Still have to get the matching sliders when money allows...





After a wuick coat of bedliner spray...





Also started to test colors and the wife actually likes Olive Drab alot... who am i to argue with that...



I also order a 12 can box Gillespie enamal paint (spray cans) in the WWII green. Got the tailgate all cleaned and painted and i'll start painting the whole tub this weekend.



Got the grill sanded and painted. This is going to be a combination of bedliner spray for the front and rear fender armor and the grill. The hood, tub and tailgate will be painted olive drab this weekend. I also have to pickup some roll-on bedliner for the interior.



Started to paint the tub from the back to the front. Not too worried about getting it perfect since most of it will be covered and it's real easy to touch up. The paint goes on real good for a rattle can. Also got the two comp-corner completely painted. Hope to have them installed tomorrow and most ,if not all, of the body painted.

I also took the top of and i wanted to see how it looks with one of the bikini tops and windjammer. I actually have two full tops in gray, a bikini and jammer in gray and another combo in black. If the gray doesn't look right, i'll just trade all the gray stuff for black.

[92SquareEye]

looking great!!



-dave

[Trailblazer]

Thanks Dave. I'm actually getting to the point that i'm starting to hate this thing. If i don't have it done by the summer i'm going to just sell it and buy a scooter.

Sooo got some more painting done and finished mounting the comp corners. Still have to paint the hood and windshield and re-fit the front fenders. Also installed new window hinges, plates and morrors.






Also took pics to show the approach and departure angles. Not too bad but i would have like more...

[Gutsy]

you elimated the rounds!

[BlackOpsPete]

Looks good to me

[Trailblazer]

Believe me, it wasn't my first choice. Just high on the list considering everything else the jeep needs