[Rollbar]

TheMajor, on Mar 4 2006, 11:42 PM, said:

Excellent Info
Thanks

[SoilantGreen]

Rollbar, on Jan 28 2006, 05:59 PM, said:

One, maybe two more paint questions B-4 I start on the fenders, hood, grill & tub. 
1. Can I mix the gallon of paint w/the Xylene & leave it or will it evaporate?
2. What I want to do is mix the whole gallon & use it in the Qt. sprayer when I need it.

Mathamatican needed.  It takes 28oz. of Xylene per gallon to be @ 20%, how much in ounces do I use for a Qt.  If it takes 20oz per gallon then it would take 5% per Qt. correct.  So 5% = how many ounce?

Thanks,
RollBar

Keep in mind that if you need to reduce a gallon by 20% to spray it, you still need to reduce the quart by the same amount. But just as a quart is smaller than a gallon, the total fluid ounces of reducer (xylene) needed will be less, but still 20%. 'You dig?


SO, if ten percent of a quart (32 fluid ounces) is 3.2 ounces, then twenty percent is 6.4 fluid ounces, making 38.4 ready to spray ounces.

You can leave your paint in your gun if it is a 1K product (single component). If it takes a catalyst, then get it out asap! It will cure (dry) inside your fluid tip and make repairing the gun a nightmare! When the dried paint in a 1K mix "clogs" the fluid tip, wipe it with a rag and some lacquer thinner or xylene until the material "flows" through the tip nicely. Keep in mind, that this is not the preferred method of painting, unless you only use one color and REALLY don't want to have to clean the gun every time. You can pour an un-catalysed paint back into the can from which it came, even with reducer in it already. Some experience will tell you what viscosity is best for painting so that you will recognize whether or not you need to add more. The point of the reducer is to "thin" the paint enough so that it flows nicely, lays down without making runs (too much) or orange peel (too little), and stays open (or wet) long enough for the slower solvents to evaporate through the surface without the surface skinning over and forcing the evaporating solvent to produce tiny bubbles that later break and leave their craters (solvent pop).

Also, if you leave your paint in the gun/cup make sure it is covered when not in use, and I mean sealed tightly. Air getting at it will allow your xylene to evaporate and then the solvent in the paint will evaporate, which will ruin the properties of the paint.

[Rollbar]

SoilantGreen, on Mar 9 2006, 06:37 PM, said:

Rollbar, on Jan 28 2006, 05:59 PM, said:

One, maybe two more paint questions B-4 I start on the fenders, hood, grill & tub. 
1. Can I mix the gallon of paint w/the Xylene & leave it or will it evaporate?
2. What I want to do is mix the whole gallon & use it in the Qt. sprayer when I need it.

Mathamatican needed.  It takes 28oz. of Xylene per gallon to be @ 20%, how much in ounces do I use for a Qt.  If it takes 20oz per gallon then it would take 5% per Qt. correct.  So 5% = how many ounce?

Thanks,
RollBar

Keep in mind that if you need to reduce a gallon by 20% to spray it, you still need to reduce the quart by the same amount. But just as a quart is smaller than a gallon, the total fluid ounces of reducer (xylene) needed will be less, but still 20%. 'You dig?


SO, if ten percent of a quart (32 fluid ounces) is 3.2 ounces, then twenty percent is 6.4 fluid ounces, making 38.4 ready to spray ounces.

You can leave your paint in your gun if it is a 1K product (single component). If it takes a catalyst, then get it out asap! It will cure (dry) inside your fluid tip and make repairing the gun a nightmare! When the dried paint in a 1K mix "clogs" the fluid tip, wipe it with a rag and some lacquer thinner or xylene until the material "flows" through the tip nicely. Keep in mind, that this is not the preferred method of painting, unless you only use one color and REALLY don't want to have to clean the gun every time. You can pour an un-catalysed paint back into the can from which it came, even with reducer in it already. Some experience will tell you what viscosity is best for painting so that you will recognize whether or not you need to add more. The point of the reducer is to "thin" the paint enough so that it flows nicely, lays down without making runs (too much) or orange peel (too little), and stays open (or wet) long enough for the slower solvents to evaporate through the surface without the surface skinning over and forcing the evaporating solvent to produce tiny bubbles that later break and leave their craters (solvent pop).

Also, if you leave your paint in the gun/cup make sure it is covered when not in use, and I mean sealed tightly. Air getting at it will allow your xylene to evaporate and then the solvent in the paint will evaporate, which will ruin the properties of the paint.

Thanks, I got it. I had for gotton it was 20% by volume of the sprayer, it's been along time.

Thanks again for the info,
RollBar
Master paint & graphic tech. :sneak:

[Lt Dan]

I don't know if this may be helpful or not but Dwarf Corp. aka Army surplus located in Miramar 441 south of Hallandale beach blvd on the west side. Also sells Olive drab 989 Alpha - buy the gallon for $30 per gallon.

[Jack H]

Paint with a catalyst in it can also be kept in a refrigerator for an extended time. My father-in-law has done this for years.

[Rollbar]

Jack H, on Apr 9 2006, 05:11 PM, said:

Paint with a catalyst in it can also be kept in a refrigerator for an extended time. My father-in-law has done this for years.

Nice touch, thanks.

[SoilantGreen]

And it improves the taste of the food to have dangerous isocyantes floating around in the freezer...

[Jack H]

I figurered it was obvious that you would put it in a glass jar with a top to seal it from the outside air. And I said refrig not freezer.

[mudman]

I have some Olive Drab that I got from the Marines when I was stationed in Camp Lejeune. I have not been able to locate anymore so maybe someone here can help me out.

It is made by So-Sure

NSN 8010-00-848-9272
Enamal Lusterless Quick-Drying, Styrenated
Alkyd Type (Aerosol)
TT-E-516

Olive Drab 34088

It was manufactured by LHB industries

We had two different colors, this one was more of a lighter shade and was a flat color while the other Olive drab was more of a dark green and had a semi-gloss

[Rollbar]

Call Rapco Paint 1-940-872-2403

They can help you & probably have it in stock.


RollBar

[SoilantGreen]

Jack H, on Apr 15 2006, 01:19 PM, said:

I figurered it was obvious that you would put it in a glass jar with a top to seal it from the outside air. And I said refrig not freezer.


   

Alright, indulge me a moment and let me continue being a smartass.

First off, I've never met a painter who had a glass jar to put paint into, and they probably wouldn't if they did, since glass breaks.

Second, in the refrigerator, you only slow down the catalytic cross linking process instead of stopping it completely like you would in the freezer. (Below, 55 degrees, the paint cannot crosslink.) So slowing it down will only extend the time that the isocyanates get to float around in the refrigerator.

I understand completely the "old painter's trick" of keeping paint usable by slowing down the curing process in the 'frig, but only if it's a beer frig in the garage. Don't do this in the frig that your family eats from, it's just not worth exposing your spouse and children to the solvents and isocyanates in paint. As the paint cures it does so by drawing moisture into the coating (at least urethane and catalysed paints cure this way) and there's lots of moisture in the frig. I know you plan on keeping it capped up, but why not just be safe and not take the chance?