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Welding Axles instead of Lockers Broward area, welding spider gears.

#1 User is offline   281 QuadCam 

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Posted 01 July 2003 - 12:13 AM

Want to weld my (d30)
Was wondering if anyone nearby could help me out with it. ill just bring the carrier. i dont have a welder or id be all over it by the way - although this is to save money, im not cheap when it comes to favors.

(i figure)
For what a D30 is worth, buying a cheap locker is still too much money. but for what a D30 is worth, itll turn my 33's in mud, on flat FL terrain. So how to lock it (read: cheaply) untill it breaks? if it does?
1979 CJ5/258/T150/D20/M20/D30/up3/33x12.5

#2 User is offline   Jim B 

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  Posted 01 July 2003 - 09:08 AM

QuadCam,

I will not be able to do this week. Never done this before but if you can tell me what to weld... I will, should not take too long. Btw, don't start taking things apart before the parade.

Keep in mind if you Lincoln lock it, you might not like the street manners while changing lanes or on the turns. :tdown:
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#3 User is offline   281 QuadCam 

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Posted 01 July 2003 - 04:01 PM

I have never done it before either, i have heard that HEAT is the key, and using misc. nuts, perhaps bolts in between the spider gears and welding those in there. i wouldnt be ready to go on this for a while, b/c i need to get in the new D30 shafts. (capable of 297 U joint) just seeing if anyone locally can help.

For street manners, im replacing my drive flanges with Warn locking hubs. In 2wd, with the front hubs unlocked, it should perform no differently than ever. :2thumup: what is lincoln locking? welding?
1979 CJ5/258/T150/D20/M20/D30/up3/33x12.5

#4 User is offline   jeepincj78 

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Posted 02 July 2003 - 07:41 PM

I also have the dana 30 front axel on my 78 cj7.. I wheeled with it open for 3 years (no locker) including Rubicon Trail, Virginia, and Tellico.
I would not recomend welding the carrier. and there is nothing wrong with the dana 30 front diff with up to 33" tires. I also just read that you are replacing the axel shafts to accomidate the larger u joints. If I were you I would stick with the dana 30, install a manual locker (ie ox locker or detroit or arb) and go with the new axel shafts. that is all you will need.... :2thumup:
1978 Jeep CJ7 4.0HO w/ Headmann Headers, MSD ignition, front dana 30 with Warn axle shafts, Warn premium locking hubs, custom drive shafts front and rear, NP 435 Transmission (6.69 to 1 first), dana 300 transfercase, model 20 rear differential with superior axles, Ox lockers front and rear, 4.10 gears, Currie twin stick, Warn premium front locking hubs, BDS 4" spring under suspension, Rancho RS 5000 shocks, revolver front shackles, warn XD9000I winch, 35" General Grabber M/T, Rubicon Express hand throttle and sway bar disconnects, dual optima batteries(red and yellow top) w/incab switch, and a on board hot water shower.

#5 User is offline   Hellbender 

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Posted 03 July 2003 - 09:36 AM

I agree w/ jeepincj78, you will be sorry if you Lincoln lock your D30, the spider gears and carrier are not large enough to carry the load AND there's not enough meat to weld properly. By the time you get the parts welded, you will have ruined any semblance of heat treating in the spiders.

You have a good front end now with up to 35" tires w/ Warn axles (33" w/ stock axles & 297 joints) and if you do this (weld it up) it WILL break sooner than later, and will take out at least one axleshaft, the carrier and spiders and possibly the R&P when it goes.

Welding works well in many applications (I have done many), but only on the bigger carriers w/ bigger spiders (that can take the welding heat w/o ruining the heat treatment).

It's your jeep, & this is just my suggestion.......

SO, if you decide to do it, ask, and I will tell Jim (in an e-mail) the "proper" ( :2thumup: if there is such a thing) way to do it, I won't post anything potentially disasterous on a public board. "Look, here's a how-to link from Hellbender on how to Lincoln-lock my D30 carrier."...........NOT! :tdown:

HB

#6 User is offline   TJRon 

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Posted 03 July 2003 - 12:17 PM

I would suggest you hook up with someone with a welded up front end or some one with an ARB or Ox in the front. Have them lock it up and then test drive it before you weld yours. I think you'll change your mind if you do any street driving.......

#7 User is offline   281 QuadCam 

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Posted 04 July 2003 - 09:39 PM

i shall heed your advice! :2thumup:

but hellbender is quoted as saying "(33" w/ stock axles & 297 joints)"

stock axles will hold 297 joints? i suspect you imply modifying the stock shafts to accept 297 joints. thing is, i run 33" right now, be them bald. i fear when i get some new meat, ill get enough traction to throw these 260's a mile away from the jeep! especially with 3.07 gears :sneak:

is there a narrow track dana 44 i can toss upfront? for instance, WARN D30 alloy shafts cost somewhere over 400 dollars by the time you order them all. scout II axles seem to have no problem going for 50 bucks on ebay, even after a regear and a rebuild its cheaper. but is there a narrow track something i could use?
1979 CJ5/258/T150/D20/M20/D30/up3/33x12.5

#8 User is offline   Hellbender 

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Posted 06 July 2003 - 07:10 PM

281 QuadCam, on Jul 4 2003, 10:39 PM, said:

i shall heed your advice!  :cry:

but hellbender is quoted as saying  "(33" w/ stock axles & 297 joints)"

stock axles will hold 297 joints?  i suspect you imply modifying the stock shafts to accept 297 joints.  thing is, i run 33" right now, be them bald.  i fear when i get some new meat, ill get enough traction to throw these 260's a mile away from the jeep!  especially with 3.07 gears  :sneak:

Sorry, I was talking D30's in generalities, not your's specifically. 1995 (or thereabouts) and newer D30's (in XJ's, YJ's and TJ's) all have 297's stock.

#9 User is offline   281 QuadCam 

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Posted 06 July 2003 - 09:46 PM

aaargh! :boiling:

i had my wheels stuck halfway in the other day, i tried to turn to climb them up the sides, i watched the wheel just shake and wobble back and forth. figured there was nothing i needed less at that moment than 260 U joints. figuring id shatter them if i kept it up, i just kept my wheels pointed straight and keep rocking :cry:
1979 CJ5/258/T150/D20/M20/D30/up3/33x12.5

#10 User is offline   Mountain Man 

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Posted 08 July 2003 - 12:52 PM

You really don't want to weld up your spider gears to make a full
time locked axle.....unless you want to have a vehicle ONLY for
off-road use.

I did it on an old CJ-2A...on the rear axle. The vehicle was great
off road....especially in MUD.....but I did not drive the vehicle on
hard roads.....I towed it to 4 wheeling places.

Mountain Man :cry:
1982 CJ-7, 31" tires, 12,000 lb. Ramsey Winch.
2002 Jeep Liberty, lifted, 31" tires.

If GOD wanted us to own 2 wheel drive vehicles,
He would have paved the whole earth.

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