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Paint Applications 101 ask your paint questions here

#31 User is offline   Skinner1 

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Posted 15 April 2009 - 06:16 PM

View Postsuperdave1984, on Apr 15 2009, 07:02 PM, said:

I was in Tractor Supply the other day and noticed they have acrylic enamel tractor paint and hardener. Stuff is cheap too. $29.95/gallon, hardener is $14.95 I think. Anybody ever use the stuff? It's really tempting to buy a gallon and give it a try because that's less than half what you pay for paint at the paint shop. Color selection is limited of course.

be aware that acrylic enamel is like the wifes nail polish . just with a hardening agent . and requires quit a bit of care to maintain.

now on my YJ i have acrylic enamel ...but there is a BIG difference . the paint i used is $108 a gal. and is high grade refined Marine acrylic and is formulated to withstand the abuses i inflict on it ..

in corbett kevin was pepperin my jeep with pebbles kickin up rocks bouncin off my hood ...trees scraping down the sides on trails and not 1 rock or tree branch left a mark .

you get what you pay for . keep that in mind

#32 User is offline   Skinner1 

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Posted 15 April 2009 - 06:26 PM

Rollbar :

do yourself a big favor that XYLENE is poison make sure you use a good resperator and get away to fresh air as soon as your done just a deep wiff of that garbage will damage the layers on your lungs like freeze dry .

that stuff is like the old imron mix they had back in the early 80's that they took off the market because it was killing painters . imron was actually discontinued for 4 years becasue of that issue and the use of lacquer base came on the scene .

i have been a professional auto and boat painter for over 20 yrs. and you couldnt get me to touch that stuff . not trying to discourage you just given you an experienced point of view .

#33 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 15 April 2009 - 09:03 PM

What would U use different looking @ the label?

#34 User is offline   Skinner1 

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Posted 16 April 2009 - 03:24 AM

View PostRollbar, on Apr 15 2009, 10:03 PM, said:

What would U use different looking @ the label?

in this heat ....most likely T001 tropical reducer .

if ya didnt live so far away i'd hook ya up with the goodies ya need .

#35 User is offline   Skinner1 

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Posted 17 April 2009 - 02:47 PM

in to weeks i have the oppertunity to paint a 02'jeep TJ including some body repairs and priming etc .if the guy accepts my bid i paint his jeep and he gets me new set Dick Cepek Tires for my Y/J :blush:

so if i get this job i will snap some pics to post so all can see it being done step by step .

#36 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 17 April 2009 - 03:26 PM

Excellent. I am going to order the U-POL Raptor spray bedliner and that will be here net week as well. I'm gonna spray the bed then I will shoot the outside/fenders/hood.

#37 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 18 April 2009 - 09:19 AM

Bought some U-POL spray in bed liner for the conversion. Picked it up this morning and the guy sells POR-15 cheap. 25 bucks a pint and 35 (I think) for a quart.
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Question, should I install the bulk head first and then spray to help w/the seal (even though I will use some seam sealer) and look of the finish since it will be sprayed?

#38 User is offline   Skinner1 

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Posted 18 April 2009 - 03:11 PM

yeah go ahead and get it all in ...remember some sanding should be done before application of that product as well as a good surface cleaning ......i wanna do that in the Y/J ....

here is a suggestion you may follow it if you wish or not its entirely up to you .

with that type of spray gun applicator you dont have an adjustable tip on it which is gonna give you a straight on splatter in a restricted area .....what i would do it i would tap the tip with a hammer just a touch to give it just a slight longated shape so you will have alittle more of a spray pattern and less restriction because see thats not actually a spray gun per say its for splatter applications only .. :rof:

#39 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 18 April 2009 - 07:41 PM

Thanks, the guy said he sprays @ 50psi but I can very it for the texture needed. I think I will take your advise cause I can do pretty well w/a spray gun and can & I am use to seeing a fan pattern. W/out the fan pattern it might screw me up. BUT, if I fan it do you think it would cause a drip?

My son and I are going to go over the Jeep on Monday and use the POR-15 metal etch as well for the best adhesion. Hopefully we will spray on Tuesday morning if not Monday afternoon, depends how jumpy I get :rof:

#40 User is offline   SuperDave1984 

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Posted 18 April 2009 - 08:28 PM

I think I have talked myself out of going the base/clear route. But if I want to do a multi color paint job how long do I have to wait with hardened enamel before I can tape and spray the other color? A day, week, month? I may just go with a single color, but you never know about me.

#41 User is offline   Skinner1 

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Posted 18 April 2009 - 09:05 PM

View PostRollbar, on Apr 18 2009, 08:41 PM, said:

Thanks, the guy said he sprays @ 50psi but I can very it for the texture needed. I think I will take your advise cause I can do pretty well w/a spray gun and can & I am use to seeing a fan pattern. W/out the fan pattern it might screw me up. BUT, if I fan it do you think it would cause a drip?

My son and I are going to go over the Jeep on Monday and use the POR-15 metal etch as well for the best adhesion. Hopefully we will spray on Tuesday morning if not Monday afternoon, depends how jumpy I get :rof:

if you dont mind my honest exp. opinion....that metal etc stuff is crap and a waste of your $$$ there is absolutly nothing in chemical form ...well other then boric acid that will etch metal .

No surfacing product paint and or otherwise will give you its best bond performance if it doesnt have anything to bond to . Suggestion : at least get scotch brite pads pref the green ones ...and get in there and put the time in and scuff up the surface if its paint your goin over if its raw metal use 80/100 grit .

you will be more satisfied and content knowing you did it correctly .

#42 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 18 April 2009 - 09:15 PM

I really appreciate your honesty and knowledge. I did sand the tub but want to go over it again w/ the scotch pad. Then rub it down w/De-Natured alcohol IF NEEDED, if not just soap/H20.

What U think?

#43 User is offline   Skinner1 

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Posted 18 April 2009 - 09:19 PM

View Postsuperdave1984, on Apr 18 2009, 09:28 PM, said:

I think I have talked myself out of going the base/clear route. But if I want to do a multi color paint job how long do I have to wait with hardened enamel before I can tape and spray the other color? A day, week, month? I may just go with a single color, but you never know about me.

i would give it at least 48 hrs. for enamel then uses low tack tape as a line base then for a really fine line use scothch tape as your lead line .

View PostRollbar, on Apr 18 2009, 10:15 PM, said:

I really appreciate your honesty and knowledge. I did sand the tub but want to go over it again w/ the scotch pad. Then rub it down w/De-Natured alcohol IF NEEDED, if not just soap/H20.

What U think?

that sounds ok

#44 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 18 April 2009 - 10:11 PM

?-is rubbing alcohol the same as De-Natured. I think so but can't remember. wally world sells it cheap.

#45 User is offline   Skinner1 

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 05:36 AM

View PostRollbar, on Apr 18 2009, 11:11 PM, said:

?-is rubbing alcohol the same as De-Natured. I think so but can't remember. wally world sells it cheap.

no it isnt rubbing alcohol is for human use .....denatured alcohol isnt . if you use standard rubbing alcohol in there not only will you be creating a flammable situation
but i will leave a residue all over everything .

#46 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 01:41 PM

Wow, thanks very much.

#47 User is offline   Skinner1 

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Posted 20 April 2009 - 08:33 AM

so i just got the word this morn that the capt . has accepted my bid to paint his jeep so i get new tire $$$ ,for the Y/J while i am doing this job over the up coming weekend i will take some pics of the steps during the job . body repairs , prep and paint .

#48 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 22 April 2009 - 03:21 PM

Ok, the Raptor bed-liner is in. Go HERE to see the results :scratch:

Tub complete
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OD color contrast on how it will look when completed
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#49 User is offline   Skinner1 

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Posted 22 April 2009 - 04:16 PM

so moving right along here are a few pics of the jeep im painting this weekend .....and new tires for me :scratch: out of the deal

its an 02; T/J paint code PS5 silver few dents and dings nothing to major ,

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nasty lil dent
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hood is seriously faded
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here is the factory paint product the capt. wants us to use .
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the mixing ratio on this product is 8-1-2 .

im am starting prep on this job friday night and will have the rig painted and ready for delivery by sunday afternoon .

its a weekend worth of work but its a pretty easy way to earn a new set of tires . :scratch:

spending the last 18 years painting large mass yacht hulls 100 + feet in size a lil jeep like this is a walk in the park .

#50 User is offline   Skinner1 

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Posted 23 April 2009 - 03:26 AM

that came out pretty good rollbar did ya do alittle hammer tap action on that gun tip or no ? i think i wanna do the inside of the Y/J like that and do away with the carpet . :scratch:

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Posted 23 April 2009 - 04:14 AM

here is the spray gun that will be used for this type of eurathane topcoat application .

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and if you look at the bottom of the the gun itself you will notice it is :scratch: made . :scratch:

#52 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 23 April 2009 - 09:37 AM

View PostSkinner1, on Apr 23 2009, 04:26 AM, said:

that came out pretty good rollbar did ya do alittle hammer tap action on that gun tip or no ? i think i wanna do the inside of the Y/J like that and do away with the carpet . :click:


I tried and hit it pretty hard but the walls are thick, IMO, it should have been smashed some.


View PostSkinner1, on Apr 23 2009, 05:14 AM, said:

here is the spray gun that will be used for this type of eurathane topcoat application .

and if you look at the bottom of the the gun itself you will notice it is :good: made . :ya:


Yep, I have one of those as well.

Quick question that I know the answer to but trying to take a short cut, maybe so don't flame me.

Here it goes.

Do I really have to put the red oxide down as a primer if I have a good base/good body that is sanded and well sanded. It's just a lot more work and I'm tired. The OD will stick I'm sure. I know I should and will probably do it but ............:biggrin1:

#53 User is offline   Skinner1 

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Posted 23 April 2009 - 10:25 AM

Quick question that I know the answer to but trying to take a short cut, maybe so don't flame me.

Here it goes.

Do I really have to put the red oxide down as a primer if I have a good base/good body that is sanded and well sanded. It's just a lot more work and I'm tired. The OD will stick I'm sure. I know I should and will probably do it but ............:biggrin1:
[/quote]
as long as your not looking at bare metal , there is no need for the use of red oxide .

as for my jeep job this weekend ....the Boat crew came out this morn and stripped the jeep clean of all accessories , fender wells , mirriors , everything makes it easier for me :click: i can already smell the scent of those new tires .
he also wants me to prep and lay a coat of paint on the hard top
( Easy Money ) maybe the Y/J will get a new winch to or maybe some new shocks or something .......i love dealing with guys that have mad Money ..KAA-Ching :good:

#54 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 23 April 2009 - 10:28 AM

Thanks, saves me a lot of hand sanding. I'm gonna go over everything w/the 320 grit I have and hand wet sand. U should be seeing OD on this by Monday :biggrin1:

#55 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 23 April 2009 - 10:43 AM

View PostSkinner1, on Apr 15 2009, 03:12 PM, said:

i would reduce that 4 to 1 so that = out to every 4 oz. reduce 1oz . then spray a test shot if it sprays alittle heavy add another 1 oz. of reducer .


Skinner, check me.

There is 32 oz in a quart correct, and I wold need to add 8oz to one quart for the proper mixture correct? Plus a cap full of fish-eye :good: I do have a gallon can I can mix in/pour it into the Binks (American Made) sprayer :ya:

Just making sure, it's been many years since I have painted. I'm also going to look for the Tropical reducer, if not I'm going to :biggrin1: w/the Xylene :click:

#56 User is offline   Skinner1 

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Posted 23 April 2009 - 10:45 AM

View PostRollbar, on Apr 23 2009, 11:43 AM, said:

Skinner, check me.

There is 32 oz in a quart correct, and I wold need to add 8oz to one quart for the proper mixture correct? Plus a cap full of fish-eye :) I do have a gallon can I can mix in/pour it into the Binks (American Made) sprayer :)

Just making sure, it's been many years since I have painted. I'm also going to look for the Tropical reducer, if not I'm going to :blowup: w/the Xylene :puke:

yep thats the 4-1 ratio

#57 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 23 April 2009 - 05:00 PM

OK Skinner, no one around here has fish-eye for my product. Can I just wipe everything down w/D-Alcohol & rock-n-roll. I'm going to do the final wet sand on Friday and shoot it on Monday (I have to help someone re-screen a pool enclosure).

Thanks,
Jim

Fenders & hood dry sanded, wet sanded later
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POR-15 on lightly rusted areas
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POR-15 on battery tray, hood support, vacuum can, jack plate & fender supports
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Since I am doing OD & black I think the black accents under the hood would look good.

#58 User is offline   Skinner1 

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Posted 23 April 2009 - 05:50 PM

now let me ask you something why are you so concerned with fish-eye prevenative ? are you dealing with some type of contaminate that your concerned with that will cause reactions ???

its your surface is cleaned properly , your spray gear contaminate free , then the need for fish eye additive is what ?????? :blowup:

i never put additives in my paint mixes unless im really concerned about a contaminate of some kind .

#59 User is offline   Rollbar 

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Posted 23 April 2009 - 06:15 PM

I (when I use to paint moons ago) always added a cap full to the QT sprayer & never had problems. I guess I don't need any. I'll wash the Jeep & shoot it, the OD is very forgiving from what I hear.

I hope a gallon is enough to do the Jeep (tub, fenders, grill, roll bar & hood)


These are nice
Eastwood Spray can

Posted Image

#60 User is offline   Skinner1 

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Posted 23 April 2009 - 06:19 PM

good god , a whole gallon damn boss how many jeeps are you painting anyway . a T/J takes only 2 qt.s total . an entire gal. thats alot of raw material

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