[mandng0]

Hey guys.. I dont know if you saw my post in the Wrenching Shack asking for help but my jeep project was placed on a serious hold because the lady of the house lost her job back in November.

Now that she's working again, nows the time for me to complete the 350/YJ swap before something else happens. Anyone who is willing to lend a helping hand or give any advice, please chime in!!! Im determined to get this thing running. Trailblazer, TallJeep or anyone who has the time, I hope the you can make it over to the house one day to help out.

So as of today, here is where it all started to where I am...


















Before my jeep was "disected" it was a manual 92YJ with the little 2.5L that could. The motor Im swapping in is a 350ci from an 88K5, the tranny is a 700R4 from a 92 blazer and as of now I have a 233C but looking to purchase a 231C when I get the extra change this week. For the most part, the "bigger" things to tackle next are:

1. Fabbing up a tranny mount
2. Getting my driveshafts to line up
3. Decide on which radiator to go with and get it mounted

From there I another bigger can of worms is opening up
1. Figure out how to run the fuel
2.Hook up power steering chevy powersteering pump to work on the jeep (dunno how)
3. On to the electrical wiring

Before going any futher I do have some questions that I desperately need cleared up.........

1. Who all can help LOL -
2. How should i determine how high my tranny sits? Are there any pros and cons?
3. What is the best way set up the fuel system on the jeep going from eft to carb after the swap? From what Im understanding, I have 1 of 2 options.

Option 1 - Drop the tank, remove the fuel pump from the sending unit, put a piece of fuel hose in place of it for pick up. Then mount a holley blue on the inside of the frame rail close to the tank, place an inline filter between the fuel pump and the carb.
or
Option 2 - Place a fuel pressure regulator on fuel rail close to the carb and use the pump that I have in my tank. If I do this, I also heard I have to run a new wire thats hot while the ignition is on to the fuel pump to constantly pump fuel.

4. Am I in over my head? What have I not mentioned that I should be making obvious?

5. Does anyone have one of those trees that money grows on?

This is all I can think of at the moment. I feel like my head is going to soon explode.

If anyone can throw is some advise, please do so.

Thanks

Marcus

[Trailblazer]

Wow, that was fast! The Jeep is looking real good. I have to set a time to go by there and help out.

On the electrical...

Are you going to use the existing harness, buy an aftermarket harness or just hard wire it to your exisiting system? Really because the motor was converted to carb, you should only need one ignition-hot wire to the choke (if electric) and a plug for the alternator. Now the tranny should also need to be plugged in. Don't know about the 700r4 that you are using, but in order to run a computer controlled 700r4 on a carb'd motor, you have to buy a lockup kit. Otherwise you'll burn out your tranny (i learned that the hard and exoensive way). I'm sure one of the tranny guys on here can verify that.

One the fuel...
I would run the external fuel pump and install the hose in the tank in place of the in-tank pump. I'm planning to keep using my mechanical pump on the 350, but i don't think you have that option... might be wrong though. Mechanical pumps are dirt cheap and very reliable so, if you can, go that route.

On the steering...
Have you heard of anyone using the Chevy steering box on a Jeep? I was hoping to do the same but i wasn't sure if it was even possible. I have crossover steering on the donor truck using a 2wd Chevy box. The 2wd boxes, turn the arm side to side rather than front to back like the 4wd version.

[mandng0]

Quote

One the fuel...
I would run the external fuel pump and install the hose in the tank in place of the in-tank pump. I'm planning to keep using my mechanical pump on the 350, but i don't think you have that option... might be wrong though. Mechanical pumps are dirt cheap and very reliable so, if you can, go that route.

Yup your right. I cant go to a mechanical pump because of the cross-member. I will say though that getting it in wasnt very hard at all. I have NO idea how to do this so maybe this is something that you can help out with.

Quote

Don't know about the 700r4 that you are using, but in order to run a computer controlled 700r4 on a carb'd motor, you have to buy a lockup kit.

I got the mechanical 700R4, I just need to learn out to hook up the TV cable and maybe take it too a tranny shop when all said and done so I can get it to lock/unlock in OD. Ill worry about that later I guess.


As far as the electrical.. I plan on disecting my harness that I have only to keep this as simple as possible. Other than getting her to fire up, all I need are the headlights/tailights, turnsignals, and parking break to work. I ALREADY KNOW THIS IS GOING TO BE A HEADACHE

I was pretty pumped to get it in. Now that it is.. Ive got a bigger boost of motivation to get it done. When its all said and done, Im gonna have to look into a lift kit. I lost a few inches in the front thanks to the extra weight of the SBC

[Dirty1]

As far as the tranny mount, call me......


Fuel- you can use the intank electric pump just fine and buy a holly regulator designed for bringing high fuel injection pressure down to about 6-7 psi for carb. thats the same thing i did in mine.

Power steering- you can go to a hydraulic shop ( Hydraulic sales & service on south river drive) and take them the chevy pump and the old high pressure line from your jeep and they will make you a line that has the chevy pump fittin on one side and the jeep box fitting on the other. also the same thing i did (ford pump to jeep box)

Radiator........ be cool or griffin work just fine for v8 yj swaps.. once you have your radiator and grilll in, you might want to consider changing the cross member holding the engine in. that style mount puts the egine further back than it should be putting the distributor really close to the firewall and giving less room for rear drive shaft and angle. once you know where the Grill, Rad. and fan are going to be, move the motor forward right up to them...

electrical- i used all of my factory wiring and just pulled the foward engine harness and removed the wires that i didnt need. you dont need to run new feul pump wires, it allready has wiring going to the fuel pump you just conect to the existing wiring under the dash...


you are headed in the right direction...... all you need is some coaching..

[Trailblazer]

I was hoping you would chime in on this...

Quote

Fuel- you can use the intank electric pump just fine and buy a holly regulator designed for bringing high fuel injection pressure down to about 6-7 psi for carb. thats the same thing i did in mine.

That's good to hear. Should save you alot of money/time/headaches!

Quote

Power steering- you can go to a hydraulic shop ( Hydraulic sales & service on south river drive) and take them the chevy pump and the old high pressure line from your jeep and they will make you a line that has the chevy pump fittin on one side and the jeep box fitting on the other. also the same thing i did (ford pump to jeep box)

Did you have to make any brakets for the ford box to fit? Also, are you running crossover?

Quote

Radiator........ be cool or griffin work just fine for v8 yj swaps.. once you have your radiator and grilll in, you might want to consider changing the cross member holding the engine in. that style mount puts the egine further back than it should be putting the distributor really close to the firewall and giving less room for rear drive shaft and angle. once you know where the Grill, Rad. and fan are going to be, move the motor forward right up to them...

What do you think about these? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JEEP-CJ5-CJ...bayphotohosting

Also, since he already paid for those mounts, do you think they could be moved foward and welded to the frame afterwards? Or is he better off selling the mounts and going for something custom?

Quote

electrical- i used all of my factory wiring and just pulled the foward engine harness and removed the wires that i didnt need. you dont need to run new feul pump wires, it allready has wiring going to the fuel pump you just conect to the existing wiring under the dash...

That'll make this so much easier.

[Dirty1]

with a little fab work the mount he has can be moved forward........

the steering box i am using is the factory wrangler, i just had a hose made to hook the ford pump to the jeep box.

[mandng0]

Hey guys.. Ive been doing a bunch of homework on all this. Now I think Im in another pickel. Let me know what your opinions are about this... I have a NP233C which is the electric 231. Now... From what I understand, I can remove the transfercase shift motor and convert it over to a mechanical set up by hooking up my stock llinkages from the 231 I already had. Now heres my question... If I just did this... Do you think it would be an issue if I just had a drive shaft made for the rear? I was thinking I could get the rear shaft I took from the blazer to work in my app. I need some honest opinions here.

The reason why Im asking this is because, my rear shaft walked away on its own. Remember, I was shafted by a mechanic and I lost A BUNCH of parts when I had to get my jeep out of his shop.
Thanks guys

Quote

Fuel- you can use the intank electric pump just fine and buy a holly regulator designed for bringing high fuel injection pressure down to about 6-7 psi for carb. thats the same thing i did in mine.

Saving money is always good! I have a fuel pressure regulator here but I think its the wrong one

Quote

the steering box i am using is the factory wrangler, i just had a hose made to hook the ford pump to the jeep box.

This looks like what Im gonna have to do...

Quote

What do you think about these? http://cgi.ebay.com/...bayphotohosting

Trailblazer, take a look at this.. Its what Ive been eyeballin 2 CORE RAD

Quote

with a little fab work the mount he has can be moved forward........

[JeepinIan]

The shaft from the truck should work, u-joint size is the only thing that would stop it. Cut down the shaft for the length you need and your ready. If you have the front shaft also, it would be an upgrade as it would be a larger diameter than stock.

[Dirty1]

Drive shafts are going to be the last thing you need to be worried about. the length of the drive shaft is to be determined when the motor and trans are final moutned. right now you need to get Holley part#12-803bp ,
and the wiring settled.... Marcus Pm me what days you have free when you get a chance.

[mandng0]

PM sent and thanks for the part number... ima get that ordered this week!

[mandng0]

Hey Trailblazer

Thought Id ask.. What do you think about that rad i put up in the link? Thats the one I think Ima go with.

Also, have you decided if you are gonna do an electrical fan or a mechanical fan with yours? Ive been looking around and have been doing some research and from what im "thinkin" , I may even go with an electrical fan from a ford taurus.

Your thoughts?

[JeepinIan]

Check this link for electric fan info

[Trailblazer]

Don't think that will work cuz the in and out are on the wrong sides. That looks like a radiator for the AMC V8. Either one of the two Ebay radiators look like they have the same basic specs as the much more expensive be cool rads.

I might also go the Contour fan route.

[mandng0]

Ok guys, I think Im set with the cooling set up that I want to go with. I want to keep it as simple as possible so I think Im going to go with a 22'19' radiator with a taurus fan behind it between the radiator and the engine. If anyone things I should go another route, please chime in.

Now, I have a question about the 700R4.

I just finished doing some additional reserch and found info on a Bowtie Overdrive's Lockup Kit. My tranny is out of a 92 chevy. Am I going to have to purchase this kit or, can this be rigged up in some sort of way? For those of you who are using a 700R4, the help would be appreciated.

[Trailblazer]

I burned out my last 700r4 (4 times) because i wasn't using the kit so it's defianatly worth it. I know that painless also sells one. There are a few other companies that sell it.

TCI Unit
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.as...mp;autoview=sku

Speedway Kit
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/700R4-Transm...p-Kit,2362.html

Yearwood
http://www.yearwood.com/index.cfm/page/pty...=531/prd531.htm

Painless
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.as...mp;autoview=sku

No name brand on ebay but only $14.00 not complete though
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/700R4-Locku...211510008r16012

[mandng0]

Man, I knew I was missing a vital part to all this. Ive been trying to do as much research as possible and its better I thought about this sooner than later. Thanks for sending me those links. Im gonna try to find reviews on each one. I guess it's best for me to go ahead and try to get one of these to save myself the time and money in the long run.

Sounds like a dumb question but, based on your opinion, should I just get this out of the way now or just wait till everything is in and install it after everything is in place.

[Monster76]

i have used the TCI one and id reccomend that one, i used it n a swap i did for a friend 400 sbc/700r4 combo into a s10

[mandng0]

monster76, on Feb 5 2009, 10:21 PM, said:

i have used the TCI one and id reccomend that one, i used it n a swap i did for a friend 400 sbc/700r4 combo into a s10

Thats what I was looking for.. someone who has used one of the products. Thanks guys.. looks like Im going to go with that one and no chance it by not having one installed.

So here is where I am... and what I "think" i need to accomplish before doing anything else.

- Need to purchase... Radiator, Water Pump Pulley, and a lock up kit for the tranny when some "play money" appears in the piggy bank this weekend.
- Gonna order the radiator tomorrow if i can get the lady of the household to belive it was only $50 bucks.
- Figured Im go the electric fan route and get a taurus fan. Found one for only 30 bucks guaranteed to work so why not...
- Gonna take Dirty1's advice and go to a hydrolic shop with my high pressure power steering line from the jeep. This way I can have the line converted to fit the chevy "o ring" fitting on the PS pump
-gotta get the starter mounted to the engine. (is there a way to screw that up by the way?)

Once these things are tackled, Ill move onto the next phase.

If im outta order here on my priorities, please let me know...

[JeepinIan]

I would get two hoses mase so when this oner leaks on the trail, you can swap it out.

[mandng0]

I didnt even think of that. Thats what I call thinking ahead

So while ive got it on my mind... here is a question that someone might be able to answer pretty fast.

When I mate the Tcase to the Tranny, is it ok to use RTV seal between the two and should the mounting bolts be torqued to a certain spec?

[mandng0]

Ok.. so good news and bad news today...

The good news is, today I droped the oil pan from the tranny just too see what the inside looked like before I get to deep into this project. (remember, i bought a donor that was in good condition and junked it so I new it was "good"). The tranny fluid was bright red and there were no metal fragments in the oil pan when it was done draining. So being that there were about 90k on it when junked, It may be a while before a rebuild.


On the downside, it was a quick lesson learned today while doing a test fit....


LONG TUBE HEADERS WONT WORK if you using a sadle mount kit on a YJ. Not enough clearance to clear the front drive shaft.

Being said, Im gonna have to go the route of stock manifolds or an aftermarket hugger set.

If anyone has some used ones laying around the garage, please let me know.

Thanks

Marcus

[mandng0]

Got that Holley FPR in today

Next stop, getting lines ran to carb

[Monster76]

and is there any way to persuade the headers to fit

[Dirty1]

Its possible. im using ford bronco Long tube headers in my v-8 YJ, all i had to do was runn the motor for a good while and use a jack when they were hot to bend them towards the frame so the exhaust would go around the T-case......

[mandng0]

Dirty1, on Feb 8 2009, 12:50 AM, said:

Its possible. im using ford bronco Long tube headers in my v-8 YJ, all i had to do was runn the motor for a good while and use a jack when they were hot to bend them towards the frame so the exhaust would go around the T-case......

When your done in the next week or two getting set up at your houw, be sure to let me know. I need to get in touch with you so I can figure out how to get this fuel pressure regulator set up, along with some other things that I need help with.

Oh and about the headers, I thought I thought of all alternatives. You guys got to remember, Im a rookie.

[mandng0]

Well... As of today, Im waiting on

- taurus fan
- shorty hugger headers
- radiator (summit 380324 )

This past week, I sold my long tubes, engine wiring harness, ecu and hopefully today someone takes the center gauges off my hands.

Hopefully this week I can get all my pulleys aligned. Once this is all done, Im gonna drop the tank I guess and go with a holley blue.

For those of you who have done this... If i use the stock pump in my tank, do I need to run a new line to the fuel pressure regulator?

thanks

Marcus

[mandng0]

Got a question for you guys...

Now that I need to fill the tranny and motor with the fluid, I wanted to get your opinions on whats best for my situation.

My tranny is a 700R4 with about 80k on it. I was thinking of going with 1qt of Lucas tranny treatment and about 4qts of Dexron IV (6) until I can get it warm enough to decide on how much to add.

The motor is a 88 350... The motor has approx 30-40k on it since its last rebuild. Do you guys suggest i use a certain oil for the milage or should I go with the basic 5w30

[JeepinIan]

Personally, I use a 20 w 50 in all my engines. Dino oil in all the water cooled, and synthetic in the air cooled. 40K is not that many miles for an engine.

as for the tranny, I would use whatever is called for in the manual. I would find out how it works before I added any type of treatment.

[Monster76]

IMO dont waste your time with additives in the transmission put the specified fluid in there, and for the motor i would go with a 10w40 around there i ussually use 5w30 5w20 in OHC v8s and in pushrod engines i ussually use a 10w30 or 10w40 that has worked for me over years

[mandng0]

Thanks guys.... Im getting closer by the day. Now I need to find a tranny cooler for the 700 and mount the cooler/radiator/taurus fan tothe grill this weekend. Also gotta run new hard brake lines in the front.

Does the list ever stop?