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Welderator

#1 User is offline   soflmuddin 

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Posted 27 November 2008 - 05:45 AM

Weldernator
start with an older style gm alternator as these are the easiest to convert.
First thing you do is remove the bolts that hold the case together. then seperate the two halfs.
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you will not mod this side so just set it aside for now.
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this is the half where we will do the mods
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you will be removing: top right is the capacitor, the top center and upper left is the exciter diode and components and the lower screw we will remove the plastic insulation.
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remove the copper winding
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remove the capicator and exciter diode and its components.
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remove the insulation from the screw

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here is what you end up with

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then you slide the brushes back in the holder and put a very small drill bit in there to keep them in place while you put it back together
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after the case is reassembled then you can remove the bit and the brushes will contact the shaft

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You need a master on/off switch for the welder. Since the rotor can draw 4 or 5 Amps easily, a relay is in order. The system in the diagram uses an 'accessory' supply through a switch.
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That switch activates a relay that let 12V from the battery go directly to the rotor.
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Now for the business end... Get two lengths of welding cable with ring terminals at one end. Bolt on one ring terminal to the + output of the welder. On the back of the new welder, there is a threaded hole. Use this to bolt on the other ring terminal.
make up some quick connect leads

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make a bracket to hold the truck side leads. then weld the bracket to the core support
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now you just plug the leads in and weld. remember to reverse polarity if welding on your own rig.

video of it in action.........http://s140.photobucket.com/albums/r6/clar...nt=MOV09760.flv
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#2 User is offline   Jim B 

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Posted 27 November 2008 - 10:30 AM

Excellent Modification and very useful on the trail. :cheergirls:

Have a question, when you are welding and the alternator opens up to the battery, does it also charge the battery :2thumup:

From most that I have seen (even the ones they sell commercially) the alternator will put out the juice with the battery maintaining but after a while the battery will drain. I found this out the hard way while doing a project using my vehicle welder since I don't have a regular welder at home. On the trail this would not come into play because you really are not doing that long of a welding job.

Btw, I embedded the video URL link you posted above so that everyone can see.


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#3 User is offline   soflmuddin 

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Posted 28 November 2008 - 06:11 AM

Quote

Have a question, when you are welding and the alternator opens up to the battery, does it also charge the battery

it shouldn't affect it as you are just exciting the alternator with the battery. you would still have you stock alternator charging the battery. outside of the common ground, the "welder" is isolated from the rest of the electrical system.
p.s.------thanks for embedding the video. amy, gatordone, wasn't awake yet to show me how to do it.
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#4 User is offline   donnyonebuck 

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Posted 28 November 2008 - 11:17 PM

View Postsoflmuddin, on Nov 28 2008, 06:11 AM, said:

it shouldn't affect it as you are just exciting the alternator with the battery. you would still have you stock alternator charging the battery. outside of the common ground, the "welder" is isolated from the rest of the electrical system.
p.s.------thanks for embedding the video. amy, gatordone, wasn't awake yet to show me how to do it.



About what year alternator from GM is used...when I go to the junk yard a year would be helpful?
Thanks, Donny
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#5 User is offline   soflmuddin 

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Posted 29 November 2008 - 07:01 AM

i know my 88 chevy 2500 uses this alternator. its also the same that is in my jeep, converted to gm years ago. it is a very popular alternator as it is a 3 wire hook-up, only two needed. i would imagine its the same in all trucks from 1980 to at least 1995. came in a lot of vehicles and inboard boat motors. its the 10si and i believe the 12si is the same setup.
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