[Jim B]

Hey Rollbar, how many coats of the red primer are you applying and how long of a dry in between, same with the OD

Looking clean my good man.

[Rollbar]

Jim B, on Mar 7 2009, 06:46 PM, said:

Hey Rollbar, how many coats of the red primer are you applying and how long of a dry in between, same with the OD

Looking clean my good man.

Two coats of each and I let it dry about an hour cause this stuff drys fast.

[Rollbar]

I have to cut down my rear DS. I was told I grind off the weld to get the yoke off, the cut the DS & re-weld the yoke. Is this how I should do it?

[soflmuddin]

yes. grind the weld flat and then use a porta-band, band saw or sawall. cut in the center of where the weld was about 1/8" , you will be able to see the line where the two metal were joined. hammer in apart, cut to length and reweld. pretty painless.



man, the bottom of your tub came out clean. good job.

[Rollbar]

A friend of mine has a metal cut off saw so that should work.

?-Now, how bout length. How much should I cut, 2". What is the rule of thumb as far as compression goes. How bout balancing, if I keep the yoke in the same spot and don't go/cut above the weight I should be good to go, right.

P.S. I guess I could visit T-Woods' site to find out unless someone here has a better link etc.

[soflmuddin]

if you didnt gain more travel or drop that should be fine. you will have to adjust for what you gained more of drop or down travel otherwise. if i was there i could tell you exactly where is the best location. i fab driveshafts often. i did one today a cv shaft, going from a 208 to a toyota rear on a samurai. the best for offroad guaranteed travel is square tube shafts. i will do a write up on those soon.

[JeepinIan]

Measure @ full droop, and then at full compression. THat will tell you how long/short you need the shaft. IMO, go for full droop, and then put a bump stop if you can't get full compression w/ the slip spline length you have. And yes, the is the way to shorten a d-shaft.

[Rollbar]

Trans cooler to add to the build-Hayden 1404 complements of TransTech (5410 W. State Road 84) in Davie, Florida 33314


Thanks Dino

[Rollbar]

Received my reconditioned 3 core radiator today, thanks to Bobby (CoolBeans) and his radiator guy.


Thanks CoolBeans

[Rollbar]

Installed the trany lines and plumbed in the gas tank. Ready to set the tub on Saturday.





Mounted the lines on the motor mount for easy removal & they are far enough from the exhaust manifold.


Tank plumbed in. Ran vent line through the frame to the front/charcoal canister. Covered the S-Steel lines to prevent chaffing.

[Trailblazer]

Did you build/bend the brake lines yourself or was that a kit?

[Rollbar]

Pre bent from In-Line tube, they fit perfect. Stainless Steel lines

Here is what was accomplished this morning.
Rear brake hose installed


T-case vent line installed


Now I won't have to crawl under the Jeep on Saturday when we install the tub

[Jim B]

Darn Jim, those steel flex lines look really nice. Can you tell us all the places that you have used the flex steel lines in addition to the ones posted.

[Rollbar]

I tried to get the footman loops in a straight line so I didn't have to spread them like U see on the motor mount but couldn't find them. Those flex lines are from Advance Adapters (7 feet long, I was going to route it down the passenger side but changed my mind. Wanted better access if I wanted to change them out. Running on the P-side would have tied them up on the bell housing and , a pain to replace if need be) and they use "RUSSEL" fitting (good to know if U get some). I finished getting the barb for the trany cooler tonight at H-Depot and have everything plumbed and ready for the tub set/1"BL on Saturday. Carb is bolted down and all I have to buy is the Lokar throttle kick down next week and find a throttle cable (A-Zone has some). But to answer your question the flex lines are awesome and sturdy/well built. I am going to run one on the double pumper carb and run my fuel line up the fire wall. All other places are S-Steel pre-bent lines from In-Line Tube.

Stay tuned, the end is getting near (then I have to go to TransTech and get him to do some magic when the donations come in).

Signed,
The Turtle

[Rollbar]

Well thanks to some of the CCJ club, the tub was installed today along with the 1" daystar BL. Sorry I couldn't get more involved pics but someone had to do something Next week, prep/paint.

Scott had to weld the two rear nuts inside the frame, when tightening, they spun.








Looks like I need to do some touch up painting, in the end of course.






Notice the Twin Stick and the notch cut out, just enough and the original cover will still fit like original.

[SodMan]

Sweet, Lookin good. Your front drive shaft is still riding around in the back of my truck.

[Rollbar]

Well, removed some surface rust, use por's metal ready, primed the bare spots to prevent more rust, sanded and wet sanded the tub. Next I will go over some shiners & the prime the entire tub with Red Oxide Primer.

Welded tailgate & primed it


Sanded & ground the tub's rust spots


Getting ready to "Metal Ready" the tub's rusted areas


Wet down driveway


Primed bare spots after wet sanding






Sanded outside of tub


Wet sanding outside of tub


Primed bare spots after wet sanding










CJ's RULE

[Rollbar]

OK, the prep is done for the U-POL Raptor spray in bedliner. I have to wash it tomorrow morning and then tape it off/spray it.



Below are some pics of the POR-15 applied.

Bulkhead


Backside of windshield hinges


Windshield mounting locations




Front cowl. This will stay since it is behind the dash etc.


Drivers side door jamb just above the joint


Bulkhead joint and side walls done


Bulkhead installed





Now here is where I sanded the tub w/180 grit and hand sanded/buffed the tub w/a red Scotch pad per the U-POL instructions. I added the 180 grit, wanted the stuff to stick as good as it can.








Tomorrow I wash the tub, air dry it, tape it off and spray

[Rollbar]

Taping tub off for Raptor bed-liner spray






Taping off the bolt holes etc.




Shooting the Raptor. IMO, a lot better then the roll on liner for the ease of application/looks


First coat shot and out in the sun to bake


Having fun


Touch up out in the sun so I could see better




Finished, removing tape






Jr removing some tape


Jr removing the tape off the foot of the roll bar


Tub complete










Tub complete, sorry about the camera angle


OD color contrast on how it will look when completed




Ok I'm tired and I am very please w/this product. Prep was 180 grit and then followed up by a red Scotch pad. I wanted it really scuffed due to some of the POR-15 used and old paint on top of paint. Way to easy w/the spray on. I had the compressor @ 120psi and regulated the spray @ the gun. I did some test shots w/just air w/the compressor set @ 50psi to get the feel, then raised the compressor and adjusted @ the gun. Worked out well and when I changed bottles I just unhooked the air line to keep the consistency for the next bottle. After the first coat & stuck the gun in some lacquer thinner and shot until the gun was clean. Waited an hour while it bakes in the sun & shot the last coat w/the main object concentrating on the bed since it will take the most abuse. So, how does it look? I'm sure it will pop when the OD gets on there.

[Rollbar]

Fenders & hood sanded


POR-15 on lightly rusted areas




POR-15 on battery tray, hood support, vacuum can, jack plate & fender supports


Since I am doing OD & black I think the black accents under the hood would look good.

[Rollbar]

Washed everything down for final paint




Taped off ready for final paint




Jr. putting on the final tape touches






Testing spray gun pattern


Painting hood


Grill painted


Roll bar painted


Hood & bumper painted


Fender painted, need final coat on the inner panel


Painting tub










Waiting second coat-this stuff drys fast in this heat so I waited about 30min




Applying second heavy coat


Tailgate latches OD


Final paint now drying


Installing rock guards later so they will hide the damaged spots & I fill /soaked them w/POR-15










Roll bar foot sprayed w/U-POL to blend in w/the bed-liner








Underside of hood, note the black accents w/POR-15


Look at that sweet CJ grill, just as happy as can be

[Jim B]

Darn Jim, what a way to document your steps in what you see is what you get.

What a sweet Olive Drab color. That hanging CJ grill is a work of art.

Keep taking good care of the 8 for me. Let me know whey you are ready to drop it off.

[Rollbar]

Battery tray painted w/POR-15


Vacuum can & jack plated painter w/POR-15


Protection plate


Steering shaft installed


Fender braces mocked up


Front clip installed






Front turn signals painted (will install military lighting later when I have time to figure it out)


ROUND headlight bezels painted


Lights installed in the grill






Note: all hardware is stainless steel, nuts, bolts, washers, loc-washers.

[Rollbar]

(NOS) WWII snorkel parts painted


(NOS) WWII snorkel mast re-painted


(NOS) WWII snorkel mast mounted with stainless steel bolts




Roll bar bolted in with grade 8 bolts which will be touched up with black paint


(NOS) Reflector location


(NOS) Snorkel nose being straightened

[LostJ]

looks great so far. Are you going to fix the rust that is on the rockers?

[Rollbar]

LostJ, on Apr 28 2009, 09:29 PM, said:

Are you going to fix the rust that is on the rockers?

Rust is fixed. I prepped it w/Metal Ready and soaked it w/POR-15 so it's sealed very well, My little welder wouldn't turn down low and even w/spot welding it would melt the thin metal so I decided to coat the entire bottom w/POR-15 and all rusted areas. I am going to build rock guard panels so they will hide those spots & function as well and I am going to coat the back side w/POR-15. All joints where metal bolts to metal has POR-15 on each side

[Jim B]

Jim, nice documentation on you build, you will look back when you done after a few years and really enjoy these shots. Some might think we are crazy for looking at these pictures but that is exactly how I feel, especially the trail runs. Our last Oct trip is still fresh on my mind thanks the pics.

Keep that Olive Drab coming. What an awesome CJ Grill!

[Rollbar]

Snorkel installed








Final hose placement


Measuring for cut out


Cutting hole, note the safety gear






Trimming fender lip, gotta love the guard on the cutter


Trimming fender edge with a file


After many times of raising the hood for fitment we have finished. I know the front is supposed to have a "S" shape but I wanted it close.




Front snorkel & clip




Jr getting the wiring sorted and cleaning up the parking brake connector






Under hood wiring


Jr getting the dash stripped for paint


Dizzy pigtail from PO




Dizzy pigtail from PO, notice the green wire on this tail




Dizzy pigtail from factory harness




Wiring under hood

[Rollbar]

Jr. sanding dash panel


Dash panel painted and drying




Dash panel dried


Spare mount, need to add spacer and angle up-wards for the 33" tire to fit




Reflector mounted in the area of the original Jeep M-170


Jr. laying out the figures for the name placement




Jr. laying out the name


Last name layed out


Whole name layed out


Stripping away the tape to reveal the name


Name complete


After scuffing the letter cut outs with a scotch pad I painted the name on the Jeep


Name revealed. This was my old name on the Willy's, it came from the Military with it on the Jeep so I thought I would resurrect it

[Rollbar]

To replace the heater core. Remove the back cover, use a 1/4" driver and it takes a 1/4" socket.


Remove heater core


Replace heater core and reinstall the back cover


After installing the back panel paint the panel with POR-15 to prevent rust from reoccurring


Tape of gauges for paint




Paint the back side of the dash with POR-15 to prevent rust in the joints and where the metal to metal meet